Home Racing World

Many casters make their own boxes from various materials. Others use the handy slot car case lids.

But I just don't have many case lids and found some inexpensive food containers. I tested the size and they seem to fit just right.



They are 4x7 and come with a lid. Not much need for the lid but the tub works great.



Just cut a pouring hole up front and then hot glued the tub to my base and poured away.



You can push the mold out from the pour hole.

I am finding these at Dollar Tree, Family Dollar and even our own local grocer. You get 2 tubs for $1.00

Just an option.

Pretty slick & definitely inexpensive!
(and have the added bonus of being conveniently stackable when not in use!
:text-bravo:

That's a great solution.

BTW, if anyone wants some case lids, I have many that I was going to pitch out.
PM me and I can let them go for free.

(Only pay first class shipping.)

Quick not about the mold Harry showed above. This mold has quite a bit of thickness on the sides. I kind of got caught up trying to not use more materials than necessary a few years ago and started making my boxes just slightly larger than the master so I could save material. I found out that it is best to never scrimp on materials. Make your box a fairly large size and it will be solid and not easily torn. If you ma

Quick not about the mold Harry showed above. This mold has quite a bit of thickness on the sides. I kind of got caught up trying to not use more materials than necessary a few years ago and started making my boxes just slightly larger than the master so I could save material. I found out that it is best to never scrimp on materials. Make your box a fairly large size and the mold will be solid and not easily torn. If you make an inner plug, it will not push out the mold sides and make a thicker body than you want. The lesson is not scrimp on materials. Same with your plastic. Better to have excess and puor a driver or some other extra part than to try and mix just enough plastic for your mold, end up a little short and throw away a 90% completed body.

Indeed. This is why I have no issues with the thickness all around.

The mold I have now is very strong and should last a long time. I'm not in commercial production, but I want to be able to make these for people who really want them in the future.

Just how thin is too thin and just how too thick would be considered over kill and a waste of rubber? (concerning a car body mold that is) My concerns are because of material costs....

Thanks,
Tom

Yes, those material costs :whistle:

Most casters advise at least 1/2 inch. The sides on mine (at the door) are about 5/8. Pretty stout.

After a few molds, my material usage is about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of silicone per car. That is making the inner mold (plug).

Well I`m going with a different opinion, I like using less rubber because I like the flexibility of thinner mold sides 1/2" usually. Makes it easier for me to remove complex areas like tall spoilers chin spoilers wheel opening flares with the thin sides without tearing. Perfect for me has been the early scalextric car case tops, or the pioneer car case tops. Each mold has it`s own case top that it is also stored in. Each pour is done with the rubber inside the case top to keep the sides from pushing out. Normally I would get 60-70 clean pulls from a mold.

Guys, I've used lots of different mold boxes. Don't ever sell short masking tape and cardboard! Just don't leave any kind of openings.

And here is boxes made using sign board and hot glue. HOT GLUE IS YOUR FRIEND.

Whatever boxes you choose to use, I like to stick my originals to the bottom using one of the many brands of double sided tape.
I tape all the openings from the inside using a good brand of masking tape.

I have used a couple different methods, and as others have said, almost anything works - and it definitely doesn't have to be anything fancy!
To that point, the mold box I made for the '75 Nova this last week uses a cardboard sleeve that came on the outside of my new Carrera '57 Chevy, taped on the inside to the cardboard from a cereal box for a bottom!
I found the clay that I use to seal the body to the bottom of the bottom of the "mold" sticks well to the smooth / satin finish of cereal box cardboard. :)
While this isn't as convenient / stackable / etc as standard containers - it does work. :D