2 part layout

[seal666]

Gentlemen,

I have a 4x10 Scaley Sport layout. The frame is built of metal studs and its covered with 1/4 plywood. It sits atop the air hockey table. There-in lies the problem. my daughter and friends want to play air hockey, they do like to race. The table is actually 2 4X5 sections. The track is hot glued down. I need to make the disconnects of the track easier, while keeping the contact positive. If I cut the locking tabs this would allow the track to slide apart. However would it keep the track joined enough for good contact. We are talking 4 joints which equates to 8 pieces of track. I could run jumpers(probably should) but do not look forward to
16 solder joints. I do have plans when time and FUNDS permit to mount the trackin a revised format againest 2 to 3 walls on a shelf, so I really don't want to ruin track.

Appreciate your ideas

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Yep. What he said. Also, you need to make the surface more rigid by adding a few well placed 2/4s underneath, screwed down from above the surface. 1/4 inch ply will give you trouble sooner or later.

[Nor Cal Mike]

As long as the rails of the track sections are plugged in the contact should be OK. If you plug it in and un plug it a lot, which it sounds like you want to do, you may have to tweak the male side of the connector with a pair of needle nose pliers once in awhile to make a tight fit. Better yet, you can add a power tap on either side of the joint(s) with a simple two prong plug to make the connection(s). I am not familiar with the construction of Scaley track but most plastic sectional track has a spot on the underside were a small bit of the power rails are exposed. The underside of the rail should be upside down U shaped. To attach a wire, I simply have balled the stripped end of the tap wire into a ball. Make the ball just big enough to make a snug press fit into the underside of the rail. I add some solder to the ball to firm it up and then just press the ball into the U. This makes a pretty firm fit. If in doubt, you can add some hot glue to wire on the underside of the track to add a little strength.

[seal666]

Thanks guys,
You've answered my question, there is no "quick and easy way to do this, so I'll just have to do it the right way. I am a pretty good solderer, 35 years with Ma Bell gave me a lot of practice. I just hate it. The table, though surfaced with 1/4 ply, is well braced and solid. The ends are 2x4 with numerous metal stud cross members. I did my basement and had metal studs and "lots "of screws left over. I was always known as an overbuilder in my model rail days. The plywood ties the frame together. the 2 table parts join together with bolts and wing nuts through holes in the 2x4 ends. the track joints span the table joints. I was trying to preserve the track for reuse, but may just cut all the connections between the tracks, align the tracks, glue them down securely and use modular jumper cables to provide electrical support. If your familiar with Ntrak modular RR's, it's kind of how we used to join sections together. At some point I'll dig out my Kodak Brownie and try and upload a photo