Crazy Slot-It question

[Bub]

As much as I enjoy my slot-it cars, the sidewinder GT-40's just seem to fly off the track more than the inline motor McLaren - like an old Porche 911 in the real world with the motor in the rear. Any thoughts for adding lead, magnets, tweaks, etc to make these cars handle better on a Carerra track? Or, maybe I should just improve my driving skills... :)

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Most importantly, rear engine cars only go off the road when the driver didn't read the owner's manual, like Corvair, VW, Porsche, NSU, etc. Ralph Nader is a jerk.

But more to the point, there are several things going on with your cars. First, Slot.it is a powerful car, and Carrera track, as nice as it is, doesn't have a lot of magnetic pull. Those untarnishable rails are stainless steel and they just don't pull the magnet down as much as other plastic tracks. Its almost always a good thing to add a little weight to the area of the chassis just ahead of the drive wheels, as much as being a good starting place for working out the best place for it. Use modeling clay to work out how much and where, then attach lead in the equivalent weight and placement.

Now for the HRW propaganda... Take out that hot Slot.it motor and use an MT-1 or something similar. And lose the magnets. I guarantee you'll enjoy racing more and get a lot more from the excellent Carrera track design.

[munter]

What controller are you using Bub? Sometimes this can also effect the drivability of certain cars.

[Ember]

On the Carrera track you can actually benefit some by installing the larger Slot.it guide intended to for a wooden track. It's a little deeper and will help make up for the extra width of the Carrera slot (remember it'd designed to be able to handle the 1/24 cars as well, so the slot is wider as well as deeper).

I'd also look at the manner of the deslot, it will lead to a more appropriate solution. Does the deslot happen front first or does the rear of the car try to lead or does it roll out in the corner or merely plow through the corner in a straight line. Each action is indicative of a different problem.

I run the same car on painted Scalex track using the original orange bell motor and without magnets. Consider changing the tyres. Not sure which Slot.it compound that the GT40 shipped with, but they didn't like my track. I run Paul Gage XPG or MJK urethane compounds almost exclusively on my cars these days. The right tyre, glued and trued makes the world of difference to the handling of a car. A smidge of weight is also a consideration. As suggested blu-tac or similar can be used to work out how much and where it may be needed. Just in front of the rear tyres can help assist traction related deslots. Just behind the guide can help remedy guide related bounce out and plough through.

I actually enjoy driving the GT40 with some twitch left in it. Helps keep me honest (and awake).

[Nor Cal Mike]

I think every one before me has valid comments. I think that you can boil it down to available traction and power and how effectively it is applied. The Slot.it motor has a lot of beans when compared to Carrera car. Add to that the 14 volts the stock wall wart puts out and the relatively light magnetic attraction of the rails, the car will be extra punchy. The Ford GT has a short wheelbase which also adds to the issue. The Ford GT came from an era when racing sports cars were little cars with big motors rather than land yacht sized rolling wings with even faster motors. Short classic cars are twitchy. Modern LMP type cars are smooth.

I'd say make sure you have sticky tires, a clean track and you may want to power it down by changing motors or consider using less voltage to the track. Cars that tend to snap around tail first can sometimes benefit by adding weight up high. I don't know if you have any space in that car to put ballast up high though. You are right that sidewinders tend to snap around quicker given their rear weight bias but sidewinder cars can handle just as well as any car. You can pile on magnets too but that is ought of my area of knowledge.

[Bub]

You folks are awesome - can't wait to try your suggestions - much appreciated.
I've got parma 45 ohm controllers, a samlex 13.8 power source (sadly, non adjustable). I think some PG tires and weight putty should be on my list, as well as a milder motor and the deeper guide.
This thread could be a how-to sticky...

[Nor Cal Mike]

[Papa Steve]

I also run on a Carerra track with the Bensenville Bombers - try 1403 SuperTires and some lead weight on the chassis - I didn't change out the guide, and this is one of my fastest cars! Very few de-slots - but we run at 12 volts.

[Bub]

Nor Cal Mike's idea for voltage reduction sounds good to me - I make my own over the air tv antennas anyway so I like the practical approach. I have a feeling it won't pass the WAF, though.
I've got some weight putty (MojoMud from Cabellas, tungsten for fishing), now I definitely need some tires.
Have always been confused as to sizing. I completely understand automotive specs (eg 17" dia wheel, 45 aspect ratio, 245mm width, outside diameter). Is there a simple formula in the slot world or do you order specifically for the car?

[ElSecundo]

Lots of good information from the other guys (and lady), Bub.

Mind if I ask how much you have tuned the car? It's not uncommon for a Slot.It to arrive with a motor pod that has been tightened down. Experimenting with the looseness of the pod can work wonders Make sure the pod floats freely.

Also, make sure that your tires are true. Put the car on a perfectly flat block, and hold it up to the light. Can you see any light sneaking through between the rear tires and the block? If so, your tires need truing. Be sure to round the edges (both inner and outer edges).

Also, make sure that your front tires roll freely. Hold the car upside down, and roll the front wheels by hand, shifting the axle from side to side, and pushing the wheels up into the fender wells. Any binding of the front wheels will make the back of the car want to kick out.

These are very good cars, but they do need some basic tuning to get the most out of all that power.

[goosenapper]

[Bub]

I second your thoughts on the good info from hrw forum - what a great resource that I much appreciate. My tuning regimen is to sand the rear tires with sandpaper on the track, oil the gears, loosen the body for some float, apply a coat of Future :). The idea of adjusting pod float never occurred to me but sounds easy enough to do, am trying it as we speak. I'll check the fronts as well for clearance.

ElSecundo your name sounds familiar - AVS?

[ElSecundo]

Don't know -- what's AVS? :)

GN, you'd be surprised how many times binding fronts have masqueraded as a looseness problem. Actually, Slot.It had a recurring problem with one of their Jags where the front axle rubbed against the body post, which kept the fronts from turning smoothly. The car handled poorly out of the box until you shaved a smidge off the body post, then the car ran great. Another good example of that -- have you ever seen a car with a guide that binds in the slot? The tail kicks out, and the car acts like it's driving on ice. Instant wacko oversteer due to binding at the front of the car.

Just like real cars, slot cars have to balance oversteer and understeer. Too much grip/drag in the back, and the car will understeer. Too much grip/drag in the front, and the car will oversteer. And yeah, it still applies with a guide in a slot. :)

[Bub]

Truing and rounding the edges of the tires and allowing for body/pod float have worked wonders. Checked the front tires and although close seemed not to be binding. I'm still looking forward to doing new rear tires and maybe a milder motor. I've done the suggested mods on a fly gt-40 as well as well as the slot-it version - both worked much better. I might have to change my nickname from "Crash" to "Fast"...

[ElSecundo]

Bub, I'm glad to hear that truing and rounding the edges did the trick for you. Some people insist on spending 4 or 5 dollars for aftermarket tires for each of their cars, but it usually isn't necessary to make a car run nicely. I remember getting a used car once off eBay that had absolutely crap tires. It was a Fly Porsche GT1, and instead of replacing the tires, I went to work on them. By the time I was done, the car had gained an unbelievable 3.7 seconds per lap, and it set the track record with its 'crappy' stock tires. That was a big lesson for me, and it saved me tons of money over the years.

These days, if my tires are too tough to work with or have dried up or turned to goo, I go straight for Paul Gage tires. Not necessarily the fastest, but super easy to true, run on any surface, and will help to smooth any car out. Wonderful tires, and a great guy to work with.