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You are welcome. I guess I would advise the good old "KISS" method. Stick with the lower cost 35 OHM controllers. They will run these stock models just fine and a Daytona mile past the set offerings.

You have the power supply already, hooking it to the Carrera power base is easy as it gets.

Good luck!

Thanks for the add, I posted my intro elsewhere :whistle:

Thanks for having me. It's been about a dozen years since I last raced up here in the Great White North but i'm jumping back in with both feet. I've already got a lot of great information from the site and great links to some of the products I require. I'm sure i'll contribute as soon as I get some experience. Thanks again guys.

I returned to slots 3 months ago after deciding that joining my brother-in-law in vintage 1/1 racing was not in the cards due to inner ear issues. Last ran slots in the late 60’s. Checked out the web and a local retailer and decided I could get more bang for my buck building a wood track. Borrowed my wife’s router(yes!) and built a 40ft 2 lane with overpass. Added PM 3-16V power via PM terminal block, 12g stranded wire, 2 power taps and PM Club controllers. Chose Slot-it cars (not too toy-like, not overpowered). Having a blast! Now in the early stages of landscaping. A bunch of great new products on all fronts. Lots to learn. Am taking pics as I go and will post them on the readers’s tracks section when further along. Thanks for allowing me to join your conversations.

Hello, I just joined the forum after finding an old Revell Grand Turismo set on craigslist the gentleman got new in 1969. It looks like a wonderful site and it will help me greatly. I don't have much experience, but am having a blast with the set. I will post pics of the set up. Thanks for the site...Dave

Hello All,
Just joined this site and thx for all the info and reviews here! Got back into this hobby with my son about 9 month or so and have been having a blast! Started out w a 2 lane analog carrera set to now a deticated room w a 4 lane analog setup with about 30-40 cars mostly scalelxtric,carrera and slot-it cars. Thx again and hope to join in on some of the conversations.

Hello, I'm a 16 y/o up and coming slot racer stationed in Las Vegas Nevada. My interest in slot cars started a few years back, but as with most kids my age, I forgot about it, but picked it back up a year or two ago. I currently have no setup track and few cars, as we have no space at the moment to put a track (Don't worry, we are working on it!) but I do want to enjoy this hobby and all the different facets of it. My current selection of slot cars includes the ARC Pro digital platinum started set, which I got for my birthday about a year ago.

Why is a 16 y/o slot car racing instead of playing video games you might ask?
Well, I do play video games(racing simulators to be exact), but there is something about having a physical entity you can touch, modify, repair, maintain, paint, and personalize that attracts me to this hobby. As far as the hobby goes, I'm more into the scale modeling aspect than the competition aspect, partially helped by the lack of racers near me, and the lack of people my age who share my interest in automobiles, and hands on physical entertainment. I prefer racing Digital to Analog, as while Analog is fun when you have friends, first, you need friends, and a big enough multi lane track. While with digital, I can use ghost cars to race against, even if I just use them to practice pack navigation, and the extra simulation features like tire wear/fuel use/lane changing add to the experience.

I love slot car racing, but my only issue, even with digital is the small field sizes. I am a stickler for replicating real life racing series, and most of them have more than 6 cars per race. My ideal slot car set would be a Digital HO set(because HO is compact, and can be used with resin cast bodies based on my die-cast NASCAR collection) with up to 20 cars(like Slot.It's Oxigen system.)
But, you can't have everything, and even being able to race 3 cars against each other in 1/32 scale on a reasonable track is good enough to satiate my need for speed.

As far as I cars I plan to collect, I am mainly a NASCAR stalwart, so collecting, converting, and building NASCAR vehicles will be a big priority, but other series I have interest are
80's-90's IMSA
late 60's Prototypes(Chapperalls, Ford GTs, Ferarri P333s, Lola T70s)
Gen 3 Daytona Prototypes(They look cleaner than the tractor like amalgamations that are most modern prototypes)
90's/00's GT1 cars.
And anything American made

Sorry for the run on paragraphs, I often have a lot to say :lol:

Hey TGR good on ya keep going man it’s nice to see a 16 year old interested in the hobby
If you’re interested in building and modifying with some light hearted competition thrown in check out the Showdown series Harry puts on its a fun way to participate
Hope to see some of your builds and welcome to the best forum on the net :music-rockout:

I want to say hello to everyone , guess it should have come here to this forum first , to at least say hello . Like everyone else I had HO scale when I was younger . but have gotten into 1/32 scale . My plan is to build a table , or should I say 3 tables and mount a Scaletrix set up , will be running them wirelessly

I also have 1/24 and 1/25 scale, but plan on making them into dragsters , 2 of them like a friends cars that him and his dad had , one a '69 Charger and a 71 Charger . I am going to try and match the pics he sent me . I also have a few other 1/24 scale bodies that I might make into stock cars or dragsters

Hello everyone , not sure which forum to ask this question , and if I am in the wrong forum please put it into the right one or tell me which one to be in . Can a chassis be stretched to fit a different wheel base . I was able to pick up a few Carrera chassis , and the bodies I have a little shorter wheel base than the chassis I have , and I would have to lengthen the chassis a little bit .

And that should have been bodies that I have , my idea is to use a strip of brass that I could either , glue in place or use a pop rivet , maybe both . I just want to make sure that the chassis has a little bit of flex .

First, this goes to the Scratchbuild area. Rest assured Fathead, I will not be the last to advise on this. The easiest way to adjust a plastic chassis is to cut it and install spacers to adjust for the exact size you need. To get flex, insert sheet styrene or similar material. Be brave, you'll get it by common sense. If it doesn't work the first time, there are hundreds of HRW advisors to help.

Good question to ask. I've lengthened a bunch of chassis to fit different bodies. The key is being able to make sure it's square when completed, meaning the front and rear axles are parallel so the car rolls and drives straight. I usually find a place in the front third of the chassis that's mostly flat and has room where a piece of plastic or metal rods can be glued in place across the gap to be created. I cut the front piece free from the rear with a Dremel or hobby saw/knife and get it laid out so the new wheelbase is identical on both sides. The two pieces of chassis can be held in place by tape on the bottom side or secured to a setup block with magnets or weights. Make sure it's flat. Then put the piece(s) inside the chassis that will bridge the gap and glue them in. I've used hot glue and JB Weld for this and never had a problem.

The most I've stretched a chassis is about 1/4 inch and this can be done with a piece of plastic about an inch long and as wide as the chassis allows so it has plenty of overlap to bind to. Or, cut two pieces of rod and glue one in on each side (left and right) of the chassis. I make rods as long as possible so they run as far, front to back, as can be fit in the chassis. The gap on the bottom can also be filled in with extra hot glue or JB Weld to further secure the joint.

BUT, make sure the chassis is flat and square before the glue hardens.

Ok , that is what I thought . I do have a set up block from SSC , one of their aluminum ones so I do have a flat piece to set it up on . Was going to use pop rivets with flat brass washers . And Way I wasn't sure which forum to put the question .