Bell end drive - Can end drive: A rant from the edge

[Ember]

OK. Working on a Daytona Coupe given to me by a dear friend. He's an old school flat track racer from the early days enjoying rediscovery of his favourite toys.

First step is to replace the Pioneer 21k motor he put in it with something a little more suited. BUT the Daytona is can end drive rather than bell end. So, looking through my drawer of motors for a replacement there are very few can end drive motors on offer. And the few that exist tested at between 22k and 30k rpm at 12v. Way more than I want.

So... Instead I either have to buy another motor or I can find a motor with a full length shaft that can drive from either end. OK. I have a 16k rpm from MRRC that I can fit. But, before I can test the car with the new motor I will have to cut the motor shaft down so that I can refit the front axle. And the motor will ever more be can end drive.

Why oh why can they not standardize things and make life simple? Make everything can end drive or bell end and be done with it! Why the two possibilities anyway? Is there really a benefit of can end drive over bell end drive? Scaley use bell end. Carrera can end. Or is it the other way around. I get so confused!!!! Which ever way I need I'll never have the right motor anyway. Argh!!!

[HomeRacingWorld]

I won't dare try and explain why.

But I will offer to send you a "Yank Care Package" with motors you can actually use for your track.

If you will allow this, I predict you can save any more hair from falling out.

[Ember]

I have a lot of hair Harry. I could probably send some to you in return if you have need. ;) But seriously, I'd be eternally grateful. I'll quite happily bundle these fast s-cans up for you to distribute to any who feel the need for speed.

Really, I have a drawer that is mostly full of slot motors over 22k rpm when even 21k is really too much for a small track. The Brits and Europeans are all big on their fast motors because the have big club tracks to play on.

[Abarth Mike]

Ember,

What about one of those job lot motors you bought? Or are they no good? I have an pre-owned Catrix motor, I replaced. if you want that? It was slow at 10v! All others I have are 20,000+

EDIT: Cartrix TX1 (FC-130) 13,000 RPM/12v
65 gcm/12v, 2.1W/12v

I assume it the above?

It is from this





Now Like this.

[Ember]

Hi Mike, the few of those motors I have left don't have enough torque for the weight of the Daytona. Or as His Lordship puts it "Couldn't pull the skin from a cold custard." I actually traded most of them to Phil K for some Tasi Resin shells.

I'm trying to keep a little bit of life in this coupe so that I can send it back to its former owner when it's sorted. I've been trying to convince him for months that speed is not everything, but he even runs his Revo E-Types with a 25k motor.

Do MJK still sell those OzRace motors? I have one here in the bits drawer.

But my lament isn't really about the coupe but about the constant need to change stuff I suppose. If it's not one thing it's another. You have Mabuchis in stock and you'll need a boxer. If you have Boxers you'll need an FF. It seems endless.

[Nor Cal Mike]

Artin is an often overlooked supply of mild motors. They are can drive. I used to give them away before I discovered slower cars with skinny, less sticky tires. Now I save them. I'd say they are just a tick slower than the Ninco NC1's.

[dr fabio]

Just keep the Pioneer in place and run 4X 1N4001 diodes in series from the positive side of the braid to the motor. Then run 1 schottky in parallel with the 4 diodes but wired in the opposite direction. Youll still have almost full brakes but be dropping anout 2.4V on full power.

cheers
dr fabio

[Ember]

Ummm... English please Doc. :)

[dr fabio]

The quality of our education system in Australia has gone to shite. Physics, chemistry, electronics and quatum field theory should be made mandatory....even at primary school level.

cheers
dr fabio

[Ember]

Cheeky sod. Nothing wrong with my high school physics. It's just that it was a little while ago and my mental filing system is a bit shoddy. I'll have you know I got As for physics and pure mathematics for HSC. Unfortunately I can't say the same for applied maths.

[Abarth Mike]

^^^^^I did post a reply . Honest

Do know if MJK have them I got mine from Slot 32. A friend of mine lives in Watford!

It is a T spec. 21,000. At the time it was the most convenient "20,000" can drive I could find.

[RichD]

The issue of overpowered cars comes up all the time. One approach is to change to a less powerful motor, BWA sells a Ninco NC-1 spec motor that is double ended and is inexpensive. M/T Racing is another supplier that offers a number of low powered motors. The other way to slow the cars down is to reduce the voltage. The power supplies included with sets are intended for use with cars that have fairly heavy traction magnets. If you take a vintage Formula 1 car with a traction magnet and a high powered motor and run it at 16 volts you end up with a missile that drives like a modern F1 car. Removing the magnet and reducing the voltage gets you a car that drives more like the real thing did and is much less likely to be damaged when it crashes. One way to reduce the voltage is to put diodes in series with the motor, common silicon diodes drop 0.7 volts each. If you put the diodes inside of the car your braking will also be reduced unless you include a schottky diode as has been noted. I prefer to put the diodes in the controller circuit between the power supply and the resistor in the controller (white wire). Some people use a variable voltage power supply or have driver's stations with either diodes or voltage regulators built in.

[dr fabio]

Rich youre gonna have to to put that into English for Embs. :D

Grabs hat and coat and leaves the room quickly.

cheers
dr fabio

[Ember]

Really guys, the rant wasn't about the Daytona or having to swap things out. It was more about every car being a different configuration and therefore never being able to have the right parts in stock.

Its probably just as well I didn't have a rant about Slot.it's product codes and the last batch of axles I received that are the reduced centre diameter ones rather than the plain ones I thought I ordered.

OK. I'll crawl back into my little box in the cobwebby corner. Promise I won't have another rant.

Embs

[Abarth Mike]

I'll rant off topic.

Revell. Axles undersized and sloppy in bushings ( not just play, but actually sloppy. The knurling is 3/32 or 2.38 as are the bushings but the axle is 2.22mm), crown gear eccentric and rubbing on the chassis, guide has more slop than a bill posters bucket. And that is just one car! :violin:

:idea: Ember you need to go to SCI some of the guys there :geek: have Phd's in Slot.it part numbers :lol: