Repairing a section of copper tape

[slothead]

After 14 years of flawless service the copper tape on the outside of the outer lane on my wood oval has some breaks in it. About a third of the way into turn 1 there's a tiny crack, and another about half way through turn 2. I put 2 inch strips of copper tape over the cracks and it worked for awhile, but now the section between the cracks is dead.

Although the track can be taken apart it would be difficult and destructive to do so now that fencing and scenery is in place. So I'm looking for feedback on how to make this repair. Put new tape over the existing tape all the way from the start of turn 1 to the end of turn 2? This would put about a foot of new tape on top of tape that still works on each end. I need enough contact with the working tape to ensure power transfer through the conductive glue to ensure the new tape gets power. I have power taps under the track at the start of the section containing turns 1 & 2. At each end of the section the copper tape loops under the track and gets a direct power feed.

Has anyone done a repair like this, or have ideas about ways to do it?

[waaytoomuchintothis]

My track is much much older, and for this kind of repair, I have developed a method that hasn't failed yet. Carefully lift the edge of the tape that is first as the car goes by with a razor knife. Slip the new piece of tape under it, then stick the new tape down on the old tape on the following side. Then use a Circuit Writer pen to assure good contact for each part of the patch. Easy, 5 minute fix that will last as long as the copper tape itself. If you used conductive adhesive tape when you built the track, it works even better.

[downtowndeco]

14 years? The impression I got from the "It's gotta be braid!" guys is that tape life was very short lived. Glad to hear that isn't always the case.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Just run a new strip and solder at each end.

[mattb]

The last taped track I built was 1986. I made soldered repairs to broken tape. That track is still in operation with the same tape on it.

Braid is great, tape works fine too and is easier to build. Good prep and patience and a taped track will hold up fine.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

When I tried to do it the Harry suggested, my best cornering cars just scraped the lead end of the solder right up in a couple of laps and left me with stuff to clean up. Since then, I stopped doing the tripod thing anyway. Also, if the tape isn't conductive adhesive, you might be melting the adhesive off the tape before you know it. Whichever way you do it, make sure the solder is as flat as can be done.

[silverspringsslotcars]

My track has copper tape. I have power taps that are soldered and are smooth. Also have a couple of places that have cracked and have soldered them with no problems so far. Just take your time and it will work out just fine.

Joseph

[mattb]

Obviously you would want the the new tape "UNDER" the old tape at the beginning of the re[pair and on top of the old tape at the end of the repair. That creates a "grain" to the tape and allows you to run with the grain and not against it.

If yo really have problem, you can always pull the old tape up a bit, drill a countersunk hole and stuff the new and old the tape in the hole and fill it smooth with solder. that really shouldn't be necessary.

[chappyman66]

Just use the tape with the conductive adhesive. I used it on my current track, zero issues despite having several breaks during the taping process. Just overlap, burnish very well and race.
Replace as necessary....one roll lasts a long time for repairs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0741ZRP ... asin_title

[HomeRacingWorld]

[mattb]

Very good, Harry.

[HO RacePro]

When I have had to repair a section of copper tape, I cut out and removed the damaged section, then peeled back the ends of the undamaged tape for three or four inches. I drilled holes -- barely wider than the tape -- through to the bottom of the track, just in front of the peeled-back ends, and then fed those ends through to the underside of the track.

Next I laid new tape where the damaged tape had been removed, feeding three or four inches of extra length down through each hole to the underside of the track. I stuck the four tape ends to the underside of the track.

I stapled jumper wires across each pair of tape ends, then soldered those connections.

Yes, that leaves a tiny gap between tapes at the surface of the track. The car will never notice it. There will be no exposed edges to trip up a car, or promote further damage. And the jumper connections will be excellent and reliable.

This fix is a tad more work, but it is high quality and durable.

Ed Bianchi

[slothead]

Thanks to everyone for the ideas posted. After a few days involved with other things I got to it tonight and used the over-under method with a bit of solder as in Harry's video. Took all of about 10 minutes to resolve the issue.

Ten minutes of repair time after 14 year ain't bad. (My mother told me never to use ain't because it ain't in the dictionary, my apologies.)

I attribute the problem to pulling on the copper tape when it was applied, which created tension and finally a few cracks. When I built the track I expected to have to re-tape it after a few years because the tape is so thin. But, if installed properly and not damaged by something external it should last indefinitely.

[Xr4ti]

[slothead]

Properly installed there should be nothing for a car to catch on to rip it up. My oval is a simulation dirt track running all sorts of short track replica cars, including big block modified cars using fat silicone over foam tires. Those tires grip so well on the hardboard (Masonite) surface I can't imagine anything going faster. And the copper tape has held up flawlessly except for the cracks mentioned after 14 years.

If cars are 'tearing up' the copper tape I suspect something from the cars is dragging on the track (spur gear?) Or, the tape is hanging over the slot and getting nicked at by the guide. This has happened on my road course on one turn and it created a lip that rear tires bumped over. Small issue that was easily resolved.