Cyclone build and tune

[proxieken]

This is the new decal available. It is loosely based on the Ebay one I ordered. I tried to match the font and the result is much clearer.

[slothead]

Very nice results!

3 questions:

1) What chassis and wheels are on this car?

2) How is the body mounted?

3) is this one of the cars you are selling? If so I'm interested - pm me.

[crossovercrazy]

Thank you for the feedback on the Future - I have had a big pool of it sealed up in a big Tupperware container for many, many years and haven't had it yellow as well.

[proxieken]

[Wobble]

Your finished #89 looks superb and the new car looks really good too. I especially love the one piece front end because I kind of 'compressed' the front end of the Cyclone a bit unfortunately, but the 2nd kit will be so much better.

[slothead]

Happy to see the Torino making such good progress. Your builds should definitely help pay your property taxes, while on my end if I keep buying so many slot cars the wife may need to get a part time job.

I worked on the 2nd Pioneer Charger chassis yesterday and am very pleased with the results. I found some Maxx Trax M16's to put on it and trimmed the motor shaft so it doesn't rub on the tire. The bare chassis on the oval produced a qualification time of 3.35 seconds, best of the cars in the same class. Compare that to an initial qual time of 4 seconds for the 1st Pioneer Charger chassis I used. Putting Quick Slicks on the 1st chassis got that car's qual time down to 3.7 sec which I'm satisfied with. Now I just have to complete the body and add decals to do an official qual run for the new Cyclone.

Maybe I'll save the chassis from the Carrera Pike's Peak Torino I just bought to use on a version of the Wendell Scott Torino.

[Wobble]

[slothead]

Very interesting - looking forward to how the car turns out.

[Wobble]

[slothead]

It looks good in the picture. My first Cyclone is about where your's is, painted white & red but no windows or interior and I'm reluctant to apply decals. Unsure if I should go with stick on decals or risk decals without clear coat.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

It depends on what you want to do with the car. As Harry and I both found some time ago, if you are pounding around an oval, use the stick-ons, Future over them, and go racing.

If you are a rivet-counting detailing goof like me, go with decals every time. If you are concerned about the age, quality or anything else of a decal, spray the decal sheet with Papillio, let it dry, and when you apply the decal it is like concrete- you can't hurt them, no matter what you apply over them. Easy-peasy.

[slothead]

I like a good looking replica which is why I buy so many RTR cars. When it comes to my own builds I'm definitely not a rivet counter, just want something that's competitive and fits with the class it's in. Very few of my builds have interiors and most only have number decals. no sponsors. As a solo racer running simulations based on lap recorded times I drive my cars hard, but am not dumb enough to wreck them. A deslot is usually the kiss of death in terms of winning a race due to the time penalty.

I guess in my setup I could chance the decals that came with the Cyclone just skip the clear coat spay. I have Future that I could use to paint over the decals, but would need to try that on a spare body part before taking a chance. Last thing I'd want to chance is having things go bad and have to strip the body, grille, bumpers and all, and start over. The good thing about stick on decals is they peel off too and can always be replaced by water slide decals, making that the safe bet.

Today I'll be cleaning the second Cyclone body with Bleche-White in preparation for a coat of white primer+paint. Then I'll have a lot of taping to do to get the front painted blue and the rear painted red.

[slothead]

Spent the last few days helping build speaker stands for my grandson's room at college. Then last night washed my latest Cyclone body with Bleche-White (twice) and applied a base coat of primer+ paint. Same result as last time - paint wouldn't stick to a section of the roof. After the paint dried I scrubbed the area with Bleche-White again using an old toothbrush. No change, the second coat didn't even touch those areas, it was like there was a force field pushing the paint away.

Rewashing the first Cyclone body after similar blotches appeared during the base coats worked, I was able to get the red paint to stick where the white wouldn't, and it filled on the bare spots. So, maybe I'll scrub the blotches again today and see if a second coat of another color will fill them in. The front half is going to be blue and I have Tamiya paint for that, and the rear is going to be red using the same Apple Red Krylon paint that worked on the first car.

Anyone know what model companies do to ensure there's no release agent on their kits? I've never had this happen with a static model kit from AMT or Revell, so there must be a method they use.

[dw5555]

Do you give the bodies a light sanding before you wash them? You would think any contaminants would be sanded out. :think:
Dave

[slothead]

Sanding is a very good idea I hadn't thought of. Before my next attempt I'll wet the body with very fine grit sandpaper. I have some 800 and 1000 grit to try. Just wish I'd asked this 24 hours ago.

Also, only place there's been a problem that matters is on the roofs of these 2 cars. This is an easy place to sand which is good. I'm curious why this issue might be specific to this location.

Thanks for feedback.