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HI All,

Ever since SRC and Scalextric started producing the classic F1 cars, I've been a very happy but not a totally satisfied fan.
For me, the slim can motors are just waaaay too much, even at 10volts, these things fly around my track.
A motor replacement is one option available, but is there a cheaper way?
Is it possible to solder a resistor or diodes in place that will basically make the motors run at 16000rpm at 10/12 volts?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers
-Nimrod-

yes, but as you add resistance at the motor you start to deteriorate braking and sensitivity

Well other than replacing the motor, the Minnow is a very good 18K motor BTW, or turning down the power, you can either use a pinion with less teeth, or a crown gear with more teeth. Either one will lower your top end and increase torque and braking.

Changing gears is one way to solve the problem. If the motor has too much power it is torque, not top speed, that makes the car difficult to drive. If you go to a lower gear ratio the car would have more top speed if your track had a straightaway long enough to see that. Since you would have less torque at the rear wheels the car would be easier to drive. It is great if you have a power supply with variable voltage, you just dial back on the power until the car is easier to drive. You can reduce the voltage to the car using a resistor and not decrease braking if you put the resistor in the right place. The resistor needs to be between the power supply and the full speed end of the resistor in your controller. If you use an aftermarket controller that would be the white wire. Rather than using a resistor I prefer to use diodes, each diode drops 0.7 volts. You can wire as many diodes in series as it takes to make the car drivable. You could also get fancy and make what is called a choke box with the diodes connected to a rotary switch.
If you have a lot of cars with the same problem it might make more sense to use a choke box than to change the gears or motor in all of the cars.

Don't pull the trigger the whole way? :text-imsorry: :text-imnewhere:

What a concept newbie :)

Unfortunately, in these cars that doesn't work all that well. These motors just have too much torque and speed in non-magnet form (to me anyway)

Having low cost motor options like the Minnow, M/T, etc make it a little easier on my wallet and worth the investment for me. Once the motor swap is complete, the cars simply perform at a much improved, smoother scale pace.

In any case, you will have to invest in some way. Variable power, electrical changes, chokes, etc and so forth. Not to mention the time involved. There is also that time and care it takes just to disassemble the cars, and with many of them this is the most tedious of tasks.

For me, if I am going to take one apart then you can be sure the motor of my choice is going in. Problem solved.

Although the investment in a new motor might not sound appealing, there is a bright spot: I have yet to replace any wheels/axles/gears.
These wheel sets have been very consistent. Just a quick truing on the Razor and then the tire sanding.

Good luck on your tuning approach. Hope you find the right solution.

I see Dave is back on form.

This is for all the screaming ninnies that complain about the current Scaley F1s being too fast. Here's a link to a short video of our local vintage club running them at (gasp!) 10V and with SILICONES and of course, no bleedin' magnets. The average age of the gentlemen racing is 63...

https://www.facebook.com/doug.logston/v ... 152/?sk=nf

I bought a couple of the first issue Lotus' just because they were such great models. I tried them out and they were blindingly fast and so unrealistic that I put them back in the box on the shelf and decided they are just nice to look at. My 1/24 Indy cars use MT5 motors and a bit heavier and no magnets, silicone tires and they drive really nice and are fun to race.

I just can't gt into a car that literally flies!

Well it seems that adding diodes which involves taking the car apart and soldering.
Changing gears which involves taking the car apart, and getting new gears all leads to one thing taking the car apart. So if you are going to go to that much trouble i would make it a wothwhile exercise and go with a better suited motor, such as the aforementioned Minnow. It will turn the demon into an enjoyable and useable car for you.
Bob

Lovely little cars.
We pop the magnets and run them at 10V. Lots of fun.
Adjustable power makes a huge difference.

Yes Bob, I'm with ya :)

Just personal preferences. What works for one, may not for other.

I don't mind tinkering and changing. So I'll keep doing it :)

Thank you for all your opinions and advice.
I've always planned on getting a better power supply, the ones I have can only be varied between 10 to 15 volts.
At 10Volts the cars still fly around the track, I'm using 35ohm electronic controllers.
I like RichD's choke box solution, adding additional variation with the diodes to give a greater range like 6v to 15v.
BONUS!!!! I can get my 1/43 cars out of storage and run them too.
For now I'll go with RichD's solution, it's inexpensive and I can get it installed in an evening to see if I'm happy with the results.

Thanks again all

Cheers
-NimROD-

Get Harry to send you the link he gave me on an adjustable power supply he uses. It adjusts from 0 to 10 amps and 0 to 30 volts. 46 bucks , and it works great. Turn it down when the grandkids come over , and back up to wherever I want when they leave. Keeps your cars from being totaled , and makes them all controllable. I run 132 , 124 , and 143 all on the same track. I bought the one Harry linked me , got it in last week , and it’s the best thing I’ve bought since I got back int slot cars this year. And believe me , I’ve bought a lot just in the last few months. I absolutely love it. Oh, and thanks for the link Harry.