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I spent some time doing up a master of a Ferrari 350. Took some pictures to find flaws before commiting to a mold. This is my second attempt. The first one just didn't look right so I reworked the front end and I am happier with this one.



Here is a picture of the first one. The front end just wasn't long enough and once I had it finished, I decided to redo another master.

Nice work. I assume this is 1/32 scale?

It is interesting how the camera picks up on things the human eye seems to miss.

Thanks , and yes this is a 132 version.

A close up photo is your best critic. Things I don't see become obvious in a photo. I think taking pictures has become my best modelling tool.

Lovely work on a hard to find body. Nicely done. The camera sees all...

Great job.

Very nice Dan
Bob

Again thanks for the comments

The chassis for this is a Gift Card, Brass and Lego all held together by a generous application of Gorilla Glue CA.

I tried an inline dual motor set up using my standard Minebea S cans. Doubling up the torque for more grunt, but limited by the 16 K RPM for top speed. However as most of my cars are powered by this motor, they all turn competitive times with one another.

Who wants an NSR chassis when you can have a sophisticated one like that (kewl!)

I am going to buy gift cards just to use, unspent, as chassis! That would still be cheaper than many other chassis alternatives! (beware of the popsicle stick rivals)

PM sent

Hi again BARC 1....can you tell me about the crownwheel/pinion you have used and what diameter the crownwheel is?
That gear set might be useful for someone building an F1/GP car.

It is exactly the gear combo I use for the 60's F1 cars I recently done

I will get the calipers out and measure the diameter and tooth count this evening

Barc1, from top to bottom this is just the bees knees and I love the twin motor set up. Please tell me, what glue do you use to assemble your chassis components?

Munter

Crown gears are 10.8mm with 20 teeth. They have a 2mm bore and I have to drill them out to 2.38mm for 132 cars. For 143 I use 2mm axles so no mod is necessary

Wobble

Gorrilla CA adhesive is my preferred CA. It has been formulated with a good sheer strength and can handle wrecks well. I have yet to have a chassis fail except for a wreck that propelled the car over the catch fence and down 40 inches onto a concrete floor. It was back in action in minutes.

I have one chassis running in the Pan American Proxy. It is a mid packer, running a Jack Rabbit motor and is still going with a couple of races yet to go.

I have another one running in the Trans Am proxy, but it is way underpowered running the small Mineabea S can motor, so is sitting in last place I think. No fault of the chassis though, just needs more grunt. This is why I started playing around twining up the motors. Two of them together are just short of a 100g/cm torque, but they only turn 15-16 K at 12 volts. If they get stuck on a track at 10 volts they are really slow. At home I run them at 14 volts, and at 14 volts they perform well, but I have discovered most proxies are run at 12 volts or less, so these little S cans don't do so well. They need 14 volts to come alive.