Older Fly Daytona Prototypes

[Modlerbob]

I just got an older Fly DP, the Doran Chevrolet. Although it is very similar to the more recent DPs it appears to come with an 18K motor instead of the Fly Madness 21K motor. I have ordered a madness motor to bring it up to current standards. I have never regarded the DP cars as particularly good looking, functional, yes, beautiful, not quite. But I must say this Doran has more visual appeal than any of the other pre 2012 Daytona Prototypes. Now if the new Flyslot will bring out the 2012 crop of cars, especially the Corvette.

[Jesla]

Still kinda ugly.....it's got Chevrolet written on it.....lol...

[HomeRacingWorld]

Yes sir, we are still racing them here. Funny how this series is seeing a revival of sorts.

[Florida_Slotter]

[HomeRacingWorld]

:text-goodpost:

I have one :)

[Florida_Slotter]

:)


By jove, I think I might have it!

[Florida_Slotter]

ModlerBob,

I think you ahould have tried to find one of these . . . . .





they are probably much faster then the one you bought.

[Modlerbob]

Marty,

I seem to recall seeing that one in the package too. Yup, it's sitting on the shelf waiting for you to perform your magic on it.

[Florida_Slotter]

ModlerBob,

Well "Magic" has been worked on my Fly DP Doran "Kodak" car.

When the crown gear went out after about 20 laps, I decided that I would upgrade the car to some 'aftermarket parts'. I had a Slot.It CH49 sitting in the spare parts box. Since the Fly has a Flat-6 like motor, I simply decided to use this motor pod and upgrade the drive line using Slot.It parts - axle, bushings, crown gear, wheels and tires in the rear of the Fly.

Hopefully it will be ready to go this Tuesday and we can see if it makes any improvements in the car.

See you then.

[HomeRacingWorld]

For us, we like these because the motor is just about perfect for our smaller tracks. Look forward in seeing your tuning tips sir.

[Florida_Slotter]

As reported earlier, my good friend ModlerBob had told me about a buy he had found on eBay. It was a pair of older Fly DP cars for a really good price. I was asked if I wanted half of the purchase and I agreed. Last week during our "Tuesday Fun Day" I got to try running my Fly DP Doran. After about 20 laps, the all plastic gear decided it did not like life anymore and all the teeth left. The running of this car came to an abrupt and screeching end.

Here is the original car:



When I got home, I looked in my spare parts box and there was a Slot.It CH49 motor pod just sitting there. Since the Fly Doran came with the Fly equivalent of the Slot.It Flat-6 motor, I decided to try putting the Slot.It motor pod into the Fly chassis.

My goal was to do some drilling and making the motor pod a screw in, just like one of the Slot.It cars. But the rear of the chassis would ahve to be trimmed to the point where I lost the rear body mount, so I just chose to bond it in place.

To align the chassis and the motor pod, I installed both the Fly axle bushings and the Slot.It axle bushings into their respective locations. I then inserted an axle through both bushings, holding the motor pod in alignment with the original axle location. The rest became very simple to do.

After marking the opening for the motor pod, a Dremel and a nibbler were used to make the opening to accept the motor pod, I grabbed the first 2 part epoxy type of adhesive I had available to me. It was JB Weld. That did make a weight impact and added about 6 grams to the weight of the car. So I would say to consider that if you choose to do the same mod.

Next up, I grabed my "Miracle Tape", aka Duct Tape. I applied it to the bottom of the chassis to keep the JB Weld from flowing onto the chassis. Then I mixed up the epoxy and made the motor pod part of the original Fly chassis. I was careful to NOT apply JB Weld to the area that has the 'suspension' area on the motor pod.

After letting it harder for 24 hours (yes, i did read the instructions - very rare indeed) After the 24 hours passed, I removed the tape and took a look. Almost no clean up was necessary.

I put the original motor back in place, then using the hardware supplied with the Slot.It motor pod, screwed the motor in place. The motor now sits even with the bottom of the chassis, rather then almost 1/16 above the bottom edge of the chassis. I used a Slot.It 23 tooth offset crown gear with the original Fly 9 tooth pinion gear on the motor. The rear axle and wheels came from an HRS2 chassis project that I later changed out the wheels on. The front wheels also came from that same HRS2 chassis.

Here's what it looks like:



I'm quite sure all of you want to know the answer to the obvious question, "How did it run?"

Well it ran with any of the DP cars that ModlerBob has in his vast stock. His Doran was no match for my car now. So he grabbed his Sun Trsut car and I could run with it and if I worked hard, could get away from his car. Next came one of his Sideways DP cars - his Gainsco, which is his latest acquisition. We ran really hard for many laps, but I could work my car into the lead of the race. I think this car is very even with just about any of the DP type cars out there.

All I can say is that I am totally satisfied with the outcome of this project.

Of course during this project, my mind started thinking about coming up with a wire and brass chassis that will host a Slot.It motor pod, either inline or sidewinder, that will simply screw in place. It will be easy to adapt to mounting in any body by changing the length of the main rails and mount area. I'll have to work out the details and see if this has any merit.

Later.

[ElSecundo]

Looks good! I'm sure this will come in handy for somebody, since those Fly gears are pretty hit-and-miss.

If you had to estimate how much time it took to do the mod (minus the wait time for the JB Weld), how much would you say you have in it?

[FootScoot]

I too have one of the Kodak DP's, one of the better looking liveries IMO, though most of them have a certain neatness about them. I guess I'll dig it out and take a closer look at it. :)

Wire and brass chassis, now there's a great idea! Looking forward to seeing one like that. ;)

[Florida_Slotter]

Adding all the parametes - stare and compare, creative thinking, measuring, re-measuring, measuring again, finally making the cuts - I would have to say about 90 minutes.

The thing that made it really easy - at least for me - was using the Fly axle bushings in their stock location and the Slot.It axle bushings in their stock location and inserting an axle through all the bushings made it a very simply thing to properly align.

Once I came up with that idea, the rest was very simple. Just shim the front of the motor pod to make it level with the bottom of the Fly chassis, tape it and start mixing the epoxy.

For difficulty,, on a scale of 1 to 10 I would have to say about a 4 or 5.

[Modlerbob]

I decided to go a slightly different route on the quest for speed out of my Fly Doran. I took the chassis from my remaining Sideways Dallara, trimmed the sides and rear of the chassis, added a center screw post to the Doran body up front and mounted the sideways chassis to the Fly Doran body. The Fly body is only slightly heavier than the Sideways body and they are very close dimensionally. The assembly is sitting down at the track allowing the glue on the front post to dry. I will remember to take my camera to the Raceway Saturday and capture some images. Must wait for Marty's next visit to determine whethermy solution is as effective as his. Of course if I had to buy a Sideways Dallara to complete the modification my solution is somewhat more expensive but since my Suntrust Dallara had some battle damage the cost is somewhat negated, and I can put the Sideways body back on the chassis if I wanted to.