by Cosmic Bilby » Sun Dec 23, 2012 3:53 am
OK H,
This is as close to a stock build as you can get...
...You will need
1 pair of PGT tyres for the 935/78 (I dont think mine are even the XPG compound).
1 NSR pick up spacer shim... ,005"/-.12mm
Thats it :D
This is what I did tuning wise....
True front/rear rims
glue on PGT rears, cut to 21.9mm diameter, profile a nice shoulder on both edges of each tyre. Pauls tyres will be taller than stock (22.2mm) if not trued, true them, .3mm is all I really wanted to cut mine down, its really low profile....
glue stock front tyres to front rims. True to 18.2mm diameter, again cut a nice healthy shoulder on both edges of each tyre. Clean tyre with electronic cleaner and a clean rag. Apply a CA glue "cap" on front tyres, wait to dry, sand to a smooth finish (I use a small hobby sanding block).
If your stock bearings are a bit loose, tighten them up using CA glue, REMEMBER to apply oil to the axle as a release agent. Its a bit messy to do, but the results are quite acceptable.
Check glue spur/rear axle with CA glue...
re-fit finished front and rear axle assemblies into chassis, glue bearings into chassis with CA glue.
Unsolder motor/capacitors, get rid of lights/brackets, reversing switch, just keep the long wires off the guide, they fit up nicely to the motor. Getting rid of this "stuff" will save you 8 grams in weight. I'm not worried about lights, my Slot.it Group C cars have never had working lights, I'm not going to fret about not having lights....
Water dip the motor.
Clean/dry/oil motor after dipping. Check glue pinion to motor shaft with CA glue (just a drop), watch the CA glue doesnt run into the pinion teeth, just a drop is all you need....
Replace motor, glue into place with hot glue.
re-solder motor wires.
Pull stock guide out of chassis, cut the back end off guide (shorten to taste), I round the back of the blade off to give it a nice "stock" look...
Give your braids a "comb"...
Click guide back into chassis.
This is where the NSR spacer comes in. Slip it over the end of the guide shaft and push it down over the Knob (hey baby...), it will sit snugly on the top of the keeper ring of the chassis.
Get a flat blade and gently open up the top of the guide shaft so the spacer can't work itself loose.
End result is you get a tighter fitting guide with less movement :)
Ok, the rear light/exhaust clip (black in colour), CA glue it in where its meant to go....
Chuck the body back on, screw it down tight and back off the screws two turns and you are ready to go!!!
I found moving the sliding magnet forward helped a lot to get a nice balance of magnet (set for max downforce is on the heavy side for me).
End result is the first chassis I did this morning did a best of 2.0 on our layout (only difference being it was the E500 labelled motor), the 935/78 chassis I just completed tonight (E200 motor) managed to squeak into the 1.9 second bracket....
Mmm, thats as quick as the #15 Scaley Sport '69 Mustang I recently did a review on....
Somehow, just somehow I think those old wives tales about Carrera models not performing were just that :D