by walker » Fri Jun 17, 2016 3:16 am
Well, the word "better" was related to my own practice.
But no matter what my practice is - two thirds of my "slotracing life" I ran wing cars, eurosport, 32nd scale ECRA and ISRA cars etc., and I have never run anything else but anglewinders.
In these classes anglewinders do not only allow smaller rear wheels and contrates, they also improve the c.o.g. a bit because they are somewhat like a compromise between the advantages of a sidewinder and an inliner.
Well, in 43rd scale there are no real races anywhere in the world :-(( so there is no real need for anything "highly developed".
But when you have been doing it all your life you can´t ( and needn´t ) stop doing it anymore.
The other reason ist the space problem under the bodies in 43rd scale.
If you are a real scale modeller ( and I am ) you can´t but building open cars as well - I love CanAm, for example. But the motors normally are too big for sidewinders. A GO!/SCX or similar sized one is almost 20 mm long. Taking it as sidewinder , adding a bit of 3 mm width surplus for the chassis ( rear axle pillows ), 4 mm for a contrate, you have 13 mm left for two wheels, e.g. 6.5 mm wide wheels, and a total width of 40 mm. A borderline width already.
Using an anglewinder you get more space and can build narrower as well.
Take into account that the center height of a lot of bodies is too low for inline drive. Even in saloons, if you want to use "somewhat better" cockpits than printed paper sheets with a head...
Fortunately I have found my "final" motors for 43rd scale - small enough to build everything but powerful enough to have lots of fun with speed, acceleration and braking, too.
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Although I´m not "everyone" ;) : A question like "what is the best..." means that everyone is supposed to have tested all or almost all methods to do something. There is little chance for that.
Nevertheless - my methods are
- I take brass tubing with 1.5 mm o.d. / 0.9 mm i.d. - ream it to 1 mm i.d. - cut it to the lenth of the pinion and ( for example ) solder it on the shaft simultaneously to the pinion. If the o.d. is 1.6 mm, there is no problem to reduce it in a minidrill with a bit of sandpaper and a diamond file.
- The same method of preparing a piece of tubing is used for press - on plastic pinions. But there I don´t solder the sleeve to the shaft but glue it on.
My tiny motors have 1mm dia. shafts.
I hope it was not too long.
Regards,
Roland
N.B.:
There is one important thing :
No matter if you solder or glue the sleeve on the shaft - by all means protect the can bearing to any glue or flux !
I use a piece of cardboard,prick a fine hole in it with a needle, put it on the shaft close to the bearing, soak it with some oil. So recess flux or glue will be taken from the cardboard piece and not run into the bearing.