New Digital Chassis

[taskak]

Dan, I don't see a resistor on your third picture, so I thought you use 12 V motor.
Thanks for clearing that up and thanks for the links.
Now that jhrico mentioned SCX bikes I remembered that I got one extra bike
and I only need one motor to build a Ferrari 312 PB so I might take the motor from that bike.
Cheers

Edit; Just bought 5 motors with carbon brushes 6V / 23000rpm, 10pcs 24 teeth spurs, 10pcs 8 teeth pinions and 10 resistor for 13,29$
So that bike can keep it's motor

[jhrico]

PM sent Aki. Thanks.

[BARC 1]

Not sure what scale you are building in, but the 24 tooth spurs might be pushing the limit if you are building a 143 scale car.

Pretty inexpensive hobby when you can pick up parts like that. The most expensive thing on the cars I build is the aluminum rims and inserts

[BARC 1]

[taskak]

[walker]

Aki, I think Dan is writing about metric module 05, but the H0 gears normally are 64 pitch, ergo way smaller.
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The tiny N 20 motor is 12 mm wide.
The axle is 2.38 mm dia.
The average gear mesh for a calculation is set with 0.5 mm.
An 8t pinion module 0.5 is 5 mm dia.
1/2 axle dia. rounded up is 1.2 mm

1/2 motor width + 1/2 axle dia. + mesh - 1/2 pinion dia. = minimum necessary gear diameter.

In case of these tiny N 20-motors / a 3/32 axle / an 8t module 0.5 pinion :

6mm +1.2 mm + 0.5 mm - 2.5 mm = 5.2 mm - ergo the minimum possible diameter is 10.4 mm. In module 0.5 this is a 20 t contrate ( 11 mm ).

Each module 0.5 gear and pinion bigger in dia. than the ones used for the example will fit.

Depending on the clearance you might need for a certain model , a rear wheel diameter of 12 mm at 0.5 mm clearance with a 20 t contrate is possible. The bigger the wheels have to be ( and most are bigger ) the more you may enlarge the clearance - example 13 mm wheels is 1 mm clearance ( at a gear ratio of 8:24 in module 0.5 )

A 24 t contrate is 13 mm dia. in module 0.5.
So it is no dogma to say 24t is the maximum. It depends, as I wrote, on wheel dia. and clearance.

I have not counted how many chassis in all scales I have designed either on a drawing board with pencil and ruler etc. and later with CAD, and of course built - I never failed with the gear mesh and minimum gear sizes.

This procedure is usable for sidewinder, partially and with little alterations for anglewinder as well. For inline only the min. crown gear diameter in relation to the necessary wheel diamater is substantial because everything else is preset by the obligatory very exact centering of axle and motor shaft.

The clearance is related to the gear only, of course. What you do with the chassis is another story.

Regards,
Roland

[taskak]

Thanks Roland, I haven't use sidewinder before so I didn't think of it like this
Cheers

[walker]

[jhrico]

Very interesting thread. Roland, why angle winder over side winder? And, everyone, what would be the best way to sleeve (bush?) a pinion?
Dan, thanks for the info on the wattage of the resistor. Funny story indeed...talk about realism in your models! :-)

[walker]

Well, the word "better" was related to my own practice.
But no matter what my practice is - two thirds of my "slotracing life" I ran wing cars, eurosport, 32nd scale ECRA and ISRA cars etc., and I have never run anything else but anglewinders.
In these classes anglewinders do not only allow smaller rear wheels and contrates, they also improve the c.o.g. a bit because they are somewhat like a compromise between the advantages of a sidewinder and an inliner.

Well, in 43rd scale there are no real races anywhere in the world :-(( so there is no real need for anything "highly developed".
But when you have been doing it all your life you can´t ( and needn´t ) stop doing it anymore.
The other reason ist the space problem under the bodies in 43rd scale.
If you are a real scale modeller ( and I am ) you can´t but building open cars as well - I love CanAm, for example. But the motors normally are too big for sidewinders. A GO!/SCX or similar sized one is almost 20 mm long. Taking it as sidewinder , adding a bit of 3 mm width surplus for the chassis ( rear axle pillows ), 4 mm for a contrate, you have 13 mm left for two wheels, e.g. 6.5 mm wide wheels, and a total width of 40 mm. A borderline width already.
Using an anglewinder you get more space and can build narrower as well.
Take into account that the center height of a lot of bodies is too low for inline drive. Even in saloons, if you want to use "somewhat better" cockpits than printed paper sheets with a head...

Fortunately I have found my "final" motors for 43rd scale - small enough to build everything but powerful enough to have lots of fun with speed, acceleration and braking, too.
--------------------------

Although I´m not "everyone" ;) : A question like "what is the best..." means that everyone is supposed to have tested all or almost all methods to do something. There is little chance for that.

Nevertheless - my methods are

- I take brass tubing with 1.5 mm o.d. / 0.9 mm i.d. - ream it to 1 mm i.d. - cut it to the lenth of the pinion and ( for example ) solder it on the shaft simultaneously to the pinion. If the o.d. is 1.6 mm, there is no problem to reduce it in a minidrill with a bit of sandpaper and a diamond file.

- The same method of preparing a piece of tubing is used for press - on plastic pinions. But there I don´t solder the sleeve to the shaft but glue it on.

My tiny motors have 1mm dia. shafts.

I hope it was not too long.

Regards,

Roland

N.B.:

There is one important thing :
No matter if you solder or glue the sleeve on the shaft - by all means protect the can bearing to any glue or flux !
I use a piece of cardboard,prick a fine hole in it with a needle, put it on the shaft close to the bearing, soak it with some oil. So recess flux or glue will be taken from the cardboard piece and not run into the bearing.

[jhrico]

Thanks for the thorough explanation! Although I am a bit disappointed that a slot car veteran like yourself has not tried each and every way possible of sleeving a shaft! What a shame...oh well another fallen idol! hehe (I am joking, of course, as I think you were) :D
Thanks again.

[walker]

[BARC 1]

One method I have used in 143 to sleeve the motor shaft is small heat shrink tubing. You place it on the motor shaft and cut it longer than the shaft. Apply heat and shrink it onto the shaft. Take scissors and cut the end at an angle to make it easier to fit in the bore of the pinion. Put a tiny drop of CA in the bore of the pinion and press the gear on over the heat shrinked shaft. Trim the excess tubing flush with the pinion gear

I use sidewinders for the same reason as Roland. They allow full interiors on these small cars and just allow you to build a more detailed model. When I tried digital, this arrangement also allowed me to use the full featured D132 decoders. I believe Roland and I are using the same type of can motor. I have found these motors propel these cars with sufficient speed and braking to make nomag racing a lot of fun. I equate the performance to be something similar to a stock 132 car that you would get with a Scalextrics or Carrera purchase.

The braking feature of the motor was the hardest thing to nail down. I had used some motors that had lots of speed, but almost zero braking effect. The motors I am now using have decent braking, and again it resembles that of a stock 132 car.

Cheers

Dan

[walker]

[BARC 1]

They don't have the green end but inside they have the beefier commutor pads just like your example. These are the ones that brake well. I have some others with more flimsy pads, and these are the ones that go well, but have almost zero brakes.