Riley & Scott Mk 3 World Sportscar Championship (WSC)

[VTECFOUR]

Had this Top Slot resin body of the Riley & Scott Mk 3 WSC for ages so with the hybrid chassis builds working out, I'm going to give this a shot.



Chassis metal components cut and prepped so on to soldering.

Dan

[slothead]

This is a car I'm not familiar with, what era is it from? Since you cited World Sportscar Championship I assume it ran at Le Mans and in similar races.

[chappyman66]

The WSC cars ran in the early 90s after the Group C cars were forcibly retired. They were flat bottom open cockpit cars. The Ferrari 333SP was a factory effort. The R&S MkIII was a leading privateer. Scalextric also makes a Cadillac WSC, and there is a Fly Joest Porsche WSC-95 (incidentally derived from the Jaguar XJR-14).

WSC cars weren't real popular, and the GT-1cars grew to be more popular in the late 90s.

[VTECFOUR]

Not enough motor/body clearance for my liking, so going to my adjust-o-wheelbase slimline hybid chassis with the defunct Devised Designs super slimline motor pod.



Dan

[chrisguyw]

[VTECFOUR]

Chassis's rolling and body's mounted, single post front and back.









Should be powered soon for a test run.

Dan

[VTECFOUR]

Managed to graft on a Fly Porsche Joest wing to the motor pod's rear.







Works for me.

Test run revealed good performance. Got a matching fastest lap with a Slot It Alfa 33, a very good car on my wood track.

Don't have a Policar slimcan as suggested but the Scalextric Sport 25K green can with a Slot It 9t pinion and 28t crown worked out fine with good acceleration and decent braking.

Dan

[JT Previa]

Dan - Interesting car, pretty succeful in its day (Thanks Chappyman66 and Wikipedia after) with a long model run and American made. :flags-waveusa:

Dan, what brand and spec soldering iron, solder, and flux do you use? Looks like you have a good system in place and my Nerf team members have been asking about options.

Also, what’s your body post epoxy of choice? :text-thankyouyellow:

JT

[VTECFOUR]

@ JT - I use a generic variable voltage iron from Princess Auto in Canada, a store similar to Harbour Freight in the USA. Solder's regular 60/40. The key to better soldering for me was your recommendation of Lucky Bob's liquid acid flux. Made all the difference. I secure body posts to plastic and resin bodies with JB Weld JB Kwik two-part epoxy that sets pretty quick.

Done!

Went with a phantom livery, Camel, my favorite. Body's painted with Tamiya TS34 Camel Yellow, TS15 Blue and TS51 Racing Blue.







Driver figure head is the wrong era, but it's mounted on a pin so can be changed easily.

Worked out really well on the performance and modelling front.

Dan

[JT Previa]

Nice work, Dan!
Thanks for the soldering and epoxy details, too. (I must say I am a bit disappointed that the “pinhead” driver isn’t looking at the camera ...


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[valie]

Well done! Very impressive.