1/32 CHASSIS BUILD

[BARC 1]

Wanting to participate in proxy racing has meant I have had to look across the fence at 132 scale as not much exist in 143 at the moment. I came up with a Gift Card chassis in 143, and I thought it might do well of the larger scale as well. The following picture diagram shows what I have come up with. All in, the chassis is less then 30 grams, and the N class motor is more then capable, but this is running at 30K RPM so a little over the top for the Panamerican Proxy. For the Panamerican it will be a similar chassis with an FF 030 motor under the Porsche 550 shell.

The chassis is stable and runs flat in the corners with the solid front axles and front wheels firmly planted on the track, there is no roll and the ass end kicks out pleasantly to let you know you are on the edge without losing control. The gift cards are flexible and the brass side pods stiffen the chassis as well as lower the COG.

This motor and gearing is torquey enough to lift the guide out of the slot on hard acceleration without a body on. I may fashion a brass guide weight and position that over the guide to keep the front end down. i have some old Brass N scale locomotive brass flywheels that would be perfect for this job.



Cheers

[VTECFOUR]

I like. Quite resourceful. Could work well under the small 1/32 Arii Japanese car kits.

Dan

[munter]

Nice build there Barc1.

I like the innovation you have shown...as a sometimes proxy racer I would suggest you bullet proof your build as much as you can because your car is heading into the unknown. Sometimes problems arise due to crashes, packaging and travelling internationally, and dare I say the odd driver who has had a hard day at work but wants to help out at the proxy round by driving a lane for the host...his mind is clouded and his driving is erratic especially when your car gets on his lane.

In the past I have used the drop test....drop your car on the floor and see if it breaks???

[BARC 1]

LOL, I have unintentionally tested this. With the 30 K motor and the chassis weight of less then 30 grams this thing became airborne, cleared my catch fence and fell 44 inches onto the concrete floor. I picked it up, set it on the track ,and away it went with no harm done.( Note I was doing a straight line run against a stock Monogram 132 car, running both cars myself down the front straight. The Monagram Grand sport Corvette, barely got out of the blocks and this chassis was already at the end of the straight. My limited mulitasking and slow reflexes meant the car hit the catch fence at maximum speed!!!!!

However as the motor pod assembly cost less then $2, I though I might slather on some epoxy to reinforce the joins. I am using a new CA that is supposed to handle shocks better then the old stuff. So far so good. I think a coating of epoxy as well will make it bullet proof.

So thanks for the advice, and I have been giving this some thought to increasing the strength of the CA bond before this goes off on a gruelling Proxy event.

Cheers


Dan

[Beast Lee]

Absolutely brilliant...!!!

[Alaskaracer]

A chassis like that would be perfect for the tiny Bug eye Sprite body I just got on eBay!

[Retro Racer 44]

Or a classic Mini, which by the way is the same wheelbase as the Sprite.

[Alaskaracer]

I was thinking that was the case, I may use a Scaley mini chassis remotored then!

[red73mustang]

Very nice work and I love the use of the Lego blocks for the axle holders. I tinkered around with an AT&T calling card chassis a few years back, but got hung up on how to attach the motor. What type of adhesive are you using on the plastic bits?

Chet

[BARC 1]

I use Gorrila CA glue. They have a formula that handles shock better then most. Typically that is all I use. On cars that I am sending away to proxies ,I have been coating the motor assembly in epoxy.

Because the motor and Lego blocks are inexpensive these are throw away items. You harvest what you can and throw them away if and when the motor goes bad