1/24 Mini Challenge Proxy_Front wheel drive - interest?

[VTECFOUR]

Throwing out this feeler for participation in a 1/24 Mini Challenge Proxy that's intended to be a builder's challenge. The kicker is that cars must be front wheel driven only!

I've built a test car and know it'll work and is fun to drive.





Basic guidelines
- wheels/tires must be front driven
- body must be from the Tamiya 1/24 kit
- motor limited to 21K

Location
- Vancouver, British Columbia,Canada

Tracks
- Greater Vancouver Slot Car Club (GVSCC) tracks numbering four and possibly five

Date
- Entry arrival by early February 2019 for track running to begin a week later

Duration
- six weeks to complete as track venues are within the Greater Vancouver region for timely running, reporting and return of cars

Entry fee
- $25 USD

Any interest out there?

Dan

[Lou E]

I would love to do this but it seems every proxy I sign up for I can’t get a car done in time...

Count me in for a tentative yes.

[viejoronnie]

I'm tentatively in too.

Are'nt 1/24 Tamiya mini kits OOP and kinda spendy...at least on the bay?

Is a 4WD mini acceptable, or just traditional front drive only?

Any no-brand Chinese motor at all with no more than 21k rpm at 12 dc? Single guide pin rather than guide flag OK? "Full" interior required or is a flat card tray with driver shoulders and head ok?

Any suggestions for wheels and tires that approximate scale sizes of 10"-13" rims?

[Z-carfan]

There is a few Tamiya Minis on the bay under $30.00. I’m trying to decide if I want to do this one, I’m in so many now as it is.

[VTECFOUR]

@ viejoronnie - answers to your questions

Aren't 1/24 Tamiya mini kits OOP and kinda spendy...at least on the bay?
I'd venture to say the kits are still available online. Whether they're expensive is a matter of opinion. There's a modeling aspect to this proposed proxy and you won't find a better scale replica than Tamiya's version.

Is a 4WD mini acceptable, or just traditional front drive only?
Front wheel drive only.

Any no-brand Chinese motor at all with no more than 21k rpm at 12 dc? Single guide pin rather than guide flag OK? "Full" interior required or is a flat card tray with driver shoulders and head ok?
The motor would have to be identifiable (Slot It, NSR, etc.) to be 21K and under. A pin guide would be fine. Flat tray with driver figure is OK too.

Any suggestions for wheels and tires that approximate scale sizes of 10"-13" rims?
As below you'll notice a 20mm x 10mm max spec will be allowed so any 15 x 8 rim with tires could be made to fit. I used the BRM 1/32 Nascar 14.5 x 8.9 rims with home made urethane tires on my prototype.

Here are some other guidelines that'll be in place.

Wheels/Tires
- maximum combined diameter - .787" (20mm)
- maximum width - .394" (10mm)
- urethane tire composition only

I've based the maximum combined diameter by scaling down the 12" rims and tires on my 1:1 Mini which are 19 inches tall. That works out to .792" in 1/24th scale.

Minimum chassis to track clearance
- .0625" (1/16", 1.587mm)

Here are a couple of the GVSCC tracks to be run on.

Luf's Big Targa




Mike's YVR Runway




If there any other questions, just ask.

Still gauging interest by spreading the word on other forums and talking to slot car colleagues throughout Canada and the USA.

Dan

[viejoronnie]

In order to keep my own build budget manageble, I think I will use a slightly lengthened, reversed 1/32 Artin plastic chassis/axles and wheels with a suitable motor of known ancestry and simple fixed pin/blade guide. I plan to add brass or lead weight to the inside of chassis outrigger boxes to lower the CG, since the stock Artin chassis/wheels are already set up for very low under-chassis clearance.

I will keep an eye out for Tamiya kits and build one that represents the 1:1 Austin mini beater I campaigned in the late 60's, red primer and all.

My 1:1 Mini racer was not competitive, and this wont be either, but both are fun to mess with.

[VTECFOUR]

VJ, you're right on with the spirit of creativity and ingenuity, what this proposed proxy is about.

Motor layout is wide open, sidewinder, angle, inline, as longer as the front wheels are what's providing the drive.

One of the known scratchbuild chassis gurus gave me the idea. "We know how to build a rear drive chassis, but how about a front one? All those fundamental factors that we followed get thrown out the window and you have to learn and discover new ones."

Brilliant! This is a challenge.

We'll see if we can get this this off the ground.

Thanks for your interest.

Dan

[viejoronnie]

In keeping with my goal of a budget racing mini, I have researched the OEM Artin motor that came with my donor chassis. The white end bell 13,000 rpm 12v Artin motor, has been accepted for other HRW proxy races. Is this motor, that won't beat anybody, acceptable?

[VTECFOUR]

Your Artin motor choice would be fine.

Dan

[viejoronnie]

Good deal.

[TuscoTodd]

Definitely a slick idea! Depending on timing, I may have to look into participating in this one as well as I have never tried to build a FWD slot car!

[viejoronnie]

Picked up a few Scaley motors to upgrade from the Artin motors I was considering using.

[VTECFOUR]

Not really enough interest, so this goes on hold. A number of us at GVSCC will build regardless and have a fun run.

Thanks to those who expressed interest.

Dan

[Lou E]

Working on a chassis in Tinkercad, if I get the thing together by February I’ll send it to you to see how it does against whatever you guys come up with.