** New Arrivals for Scratch Builders ***

[SlotCarCorner]

[HomeRacingWorld]

Things just keep getting better.

[btaylor]

Sweet stuff Guy's! It just keeps getting better and better for us builders!
Thanks for all you do. We only need a chassis Dyno now, and it will be complete. :lol:

Bob

[kidvoltage]

Samson Classic "Flex-Rite" Tweak Board

Can someone explain to the less knowledgeable exactly what this is and how it works. I found the picture puzzling at best.

[SlotCarCorner]

The “Flex-Rite” Tweak Station has two aluminum platforms connected by a steel rod (if you look closely in the picture, you’ll see it running underneath the guide tongue and motor). One platform (the one under the front wheels in the 2nd picture) is leveled (using 2 set screws) and rests on a flat surface. The metal connecting rod is secured to this platform using a couple of set screws. The second platform (under the rear wheel in the picture) pivots on the connecting rod. There is a collar on the connecting rod with a long set screw that elevates the second platform allowing it to pivot – it is hidden under the motor in the picture. The distance between the platforms is adjustable to accommodate different length cars/chassis. A bubble level indicates if the second platform (again, the one that pivots) is level.

Using the rolling chassis shown in the picture as an example, the front two wheels rest on the stationary platform. The second platform pivots on the connecting rod to touch both rear wheels. If the bubble is in the middle of the level, life is good – your chassis is not “tweaked”. If the pivoting platform is not level, your chassis is “tweaked” and needs to be repaired/adjusted - the level will show you in which direction. Examples of possible causes might be the chassis itself is not “straight” (left/right) or one/both axles might not be parallel to the platforms (which represent the racing surface). As you build the car, it’s an easy way to check the chassis is “flat” and everything is one the same plane. If you’re racing and have a hard crash, it’s an easy way to see if the chassis was “tweaked” and is no longer flat.

[kidvoltage]

Thank you, sometimes a picture needs a thousand words.

[bigman]

Guys
:text-goodpost: Another great example why you guys are the best. :text-bravo:
Great tools, :idea: we are always looking for ways to make our cars a little better and easier to work on.
Going to have to get some of those :lol: "Harry nuts" :lol: for the pit box :scared-eek:
Plus a new tool also, never have to many tools. :auto-checkeredflag:


:text-thankyouyellow: bigman

[gascarnut]

Thanks to Steve and SCC for taking the plunge and stocking these products.

Please note the the guide nuts are for the commercial style 3/16" diameter guide posts, not for regular 1/32 scale guides. It also helps when using them to pre-thread the guide posts all the way down rather than expecting the nut to cut its own thread.

The name for the nuts comes from a friend of mine from back in the day in South Africa, he was the first to make this design, so we named then after him.

[dw5555]

[gascarnut]

I will take some more photos this weekend so you all can see how the Flex-Rite works.

A set of instructions is included with each kit, and I have attached them to this post. They were written primarily for setting up a scratch built 1/24 scale retro car frame, so ignore the references to "re-soldering" and twisting if you are setting up a plastic car. You will be adjusting axle heights and pod screws more than twisting or soldering.

As long as the car can stand on all 4 wheels without the guide interfering with the cross bar, any car will fit, What I normally do with cars where the guide extends back between the front wheels is either just turn the guide to its full travel, or remove it while I am setting up the chassis.