JayGee Linear 200 MOD-PWM-HO132 Help

[snemoff]

Last night while racing I wired the controller and connected red to black and black to red. When the race started I blew the contoller fuse. Connected the wires correctly and got another fuse. Without touching the controller, my car ran wide open throttle. Checking the led's, they are working correctly. So it seems that i ruined something in the electronics, but I have no clue what part(s) need to be replaced. The website is no longer found, and I don't think Jeff Goldberg is supporting these controllers anymore. Does anyone know of someone that can diagnose this or tell me what needs to be replaced? Thanks, Steve

[snemoff]

I cut the two heat shrink covers off of the board. By the fuse, I found that D6, D7 & D8 which are S3B diodes, are all open and have to be replaced. Q3 and Q5 are 8447L MOSFET's without a diode. I contacted Digi-Key for help on the MOSFET. They had 6 different versions and none of them were the non diode type. So the person at Digi-Key looked at the data sheet for this part and saw what I was taking about. He has to refer it > no part number for the non diode version. Digi-Key has the diodes, less than $0.50 each. Don't know what the MOSFET's will cost. I just don't know if this is all I have to replace or if more parts need to be replaced. So I will have to wait and see if they can get me a part number for the MOSFET's - I need 2 of them.

[snemoff]

I checked with ON Semiconductor about the FDD8447L MOSFETS. I was told that there is only one version; ignore the non diode
version in the data sheet.
On 3/6/2018, I ordered the SB3 diodes, FDD8447L-F085 MOSFETs and 2' diameter heat shrink tubing from Mouser Electronics. Their
technical support was very helpful - they helped me get the right size heat shrink tubing and later answered my questions about
actually shrinking the tubing.
Received the parts last Friday 3/9/2018.
Saturday 3/10, I unsoldered the 3 bad diodes and the 2 bad MOSFETs. Then soldered in the new parts. Not as nice of a soldering
job as the factory - I could not heat up both ends of the diode or the 3 connections for the MOSFETs at the same time.
Then I used a meter to check resistance between the white and black wires. It was in the mega ohm range. First test passed.
Then I hooked it up on my HO table and drove a car around the track - it is fixed and working.
Sunday i cut two lengths of heat shrink tubing to put back on the board. Set one at piece of tubing at a time using a heat gun.
Then used my shop vac to cool everything back down.
I was able to pull off the white JayGee Racing sticker from the old tubing and was able to stick it onto my new tubing.
Controller repaired.