Shoreline Model Raceways-New Class

[RichD]

SMR will be starting a new Open Wheel class soon. The cars will be Scalextric Dallara IRL and modern F1 cars without magnets. Paul Gage tires must be used. The rear wheels, bearings and gears may be replaced with aftermarket parts.

[Audi1]

Good idea! I love the open wheel cars; particularly the modern F1 cars.

But, better order some spare front ends for those open wheel cars..................they can need a major repair almost instantly after a big de-slot.............. Ask me how I know.....................

Allan

[turbokev]

Great class.. HOST had an open wheel class years ago.. wish they still raced them.

[RichD]

We run without magnets at 10 volts.The front ends are reinforced with plastic or metal tubing. We had a class for the IRL cars that we ran for about two years and we only had a rear wing get knocked off once in a while. Back when we still used magnets and ran at 14 volts the cars took a real beating.
The rules for our cars can be found on Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzLR42 ... sp=sharing
You might have to use Chrome or Firefox to see them.

[Hernibon]

Do you have any other comments here.

[RichD]

We now have seven classes and we run three of those each week. We did a number of proxy races recently, so we missed a number of our regular races, as a result of that we have not run the Open Wheel class very much and are still getting up to speed with them. I used cars that already had the front end stiffened up with square section tubing. The guide flag needs to be modified to get the front tires planted. The trick is to remove the braid and sand the bottom of the flag to make it thinner. Normally the back end of the braid goes through a slot and wraps under the flag to hold it in place, we glue the braid to the top side of the flag. These cars have wipers that make up with the top side of the braids and those have to be adjusted properly to get good contact without pushing down on the flag very much. I uses a small screw and washer to hold the flag in place. If you use the stock flag they do not fit as deep in the slot as I would like, they are designed so that the cars can be used on Scalextric Classic track which has shallow slots. Recently I switched all of my cars over to using modified Slot.it CH10 guide. I glued the braids to the top of the guide like I did with the Scalextric guides, the hitch is that the post is too small in diameter, so I made sleeves out of brass tubing. That was a lot of trouble because those had to be paper thin. Looking back at it it would have been easier to fill the post hole with JB Weld and drill a new hole the correct size. It might be necessary to buy a number drill to get the right size. A 9/64ths or # 28 will work. I am using Slot.it 29 tooth crown gears, the inside of the body had to be ground a bit for clearence, I was able to do that without making holes in the body, but it was also necessary to sand the gears as well. I stuck with the stock 9 tooth pinion gear. When we ran these cars before we used the stock rear axle assembly with Super Tires. The rear bearings were a little loose so the Superglue trick was used to tighten things up. This time around we went with Paul Gauge urethane tires to get a little more slide, but replacing the whole rear axle assembly with aftermarket parts is expensive. That was mostly done to eliminate the variability factor that you can get with stock parts.

[racer6583]

Hi Rich would you please post some pics of how the front ends where reinforce with tubing.
The new class sounds like a great one hope you all have a great time running those cars.

[RichD]

I used 1/8th square section tubing for my two IRL cars. The tubing goes all the way across the car. I had to drill through the brake rotors, etc. starting with a smaller drill, then going to the final size, which was 11/64ths, I think. I had to be very careful to avoid breaking the suspension detail. For the F1 car I could not drill all the way across, so I just drilled through the brake rotors and used two pieces of 1/8th plastic tubing, which was epoxied in place. The car was left parked on a setup plate while the epoxy cured so that the front end would be squared up.