Router Recommendation

[Fitzy]

I know I have seen a few Post's here on router's I don't own one and am going to buy one any good recommendations on what I need? I have the bits already from SCC I've watched a few videos and I'm ready to create my own wood race track my first one is going to be an oval I have 5' x 16' to work with 4 lanes 4" lane spacing it will be called "Eagle Mill's Speedway" what should I be looking for in a router?

[rbianchi]

I use the Craftsman Corded Fixed/Plunge Base Router Combo 16.8 in. Dia. 12 Amp amps 2 hp 25000 rpm. It has a dust port on the back side which is a must. I've done a lot of routing with it and have never had a problem.

[chappyman66]

Routers are rated in HP and RPM usually. For a track you are spinning a small bit ( even for the braid recess) and you can do it with a trim router. If you want to do other woodworking later, get a 2HP model since you need it for running larger shaping bits.
But for a track, a good trim router can work just fine. Otherwise a 1 or 1.5 HPplunge router will do the job. Dust port or outside workspace is essential.

[Billy boy]

The larger routers usually have handles and are easier to control and won’t have to work as hard. Also they usually have a collet that lets you use the large shank bits as well for other projects. The larger base makes it a bit more stable as well. The large routers will also work with most router tables should you ever need one of those for other projects. Have fun and don’t rush it.

[Pappy]

[mattb]

I used a 40 year old Craftsman, probably a 1 1/2 or so. It was a full size router. I bought a new HD trim router to do the gains so I wouldn't have to change bits and could leave depth set permanently with both bits. After finishing, I think I might try the trim router for the full job next time. It is not as a stable as a full size, but mdf cuts so easy that it can cut it easily enough. I think if you rout with some kind fence for a guide the trim router is fine. Maybe if you use a compass arm to cut curves, a heavier router is better. Just thinking about how much base you have to mount a guide to.

I will not do this again without have a second pair of hands to hold the shop vac hose behind the router.

I am intending to do a mod to one end of my track after the first of the year. I am going to make a flat curve a larger radius, wider lane spacing and a little banking. A few of the guys that race just can't make it around that corner. Better to re-work it then to have cars coming off every lap and the fun factor low.

Depending on your future use, you can buy a much cheaper router at Harbor Freight. I would check around about them first, though.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Good luck Fitzy, sounds like a grand plan of a track to me :)

[chappyman66]

All valid points. Especially about routing the gains flat before forming the banking, if any.

[dw5555]

[F1Fan]

Since I am currently working on this track, I thought I would chime in with my router recommendations:



I have had my Ryobi for many years, and I found it to me great value for money: (I have a Freud bit for routing the slots in this router)



I recently got the new 1.25hp Bosch Colt (this is a newer model than the previous 1hp Colt) on sale and it is fantastic (I have the SCC bit for routing the gains in this)

[chappyman66]

It has to do with the width of the router base and the degree of banking. If the corner is tight enough, the router base lifts off of the wood and rides on the edges of the base that touch the curve....which decreases the depth of the slot. Which, when cutting the braid gain, is critical. It's harder to control the router for a smooth cut, too.
This is why long cars will sometimes deslot on the older banked curves.

You can go back and make multiple passes to increase the depth, but that's a PITA.

Routing flat eliminates all of that. However.... sometimes the slot will close up a bit if the banking is tight....so you still need to run a guide through to make sure everything is clear.

A trim router has a much smaller baseplate to start with, but it does have less power. For a small oval, it's all good.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

I've been a woodworker (furniture, boats, small buildings), for 46 years, and I have acquired 7 routers (huge down to tiny), and the one I use all the time is the Bosch Colt. That little rascal is powerful, speedy, very comfortable in the hand, light, and easily adapted to any situation. It was a breeze just using the original base, routing a track.

[Fletch3]

Dont be like me, I bought a dewalt kit and spent way to much on it. Had it for ten years and routed 4 tracks. Never used it for anything else. Lol. Spend the extra money on a few good double flute bits. Alway have a spare. It sucks if ya break one and ya have to stop to go get another.

[WB2]

Good tools are good tools. Don’t buy junk.
Look for a trammel attachment to route curves. You can make your own, but I found a great adjustable one at Rockler.
And practice. You need to learn the proper direction to feed into the work so the bit pulls the router into the work/against the straightedge instead pushing it out.

[mattb]

The Home Depot brand tools (Rigid) are good values and have a good warranty. A good arm is important for routing curves if you go that route and not the guide fence route. You can make one, but I learned it needs to be more than just flat steel. If it is flat it can flex a little and keep your slot from being perfect. For years I had one that was a 1 inch piece of square aluminum tubing and it worked fine. On this last project I used a flat 48 inch steel ruler and it flexed and made for some variance in the slot.

If I remember right, fence behind router, you in front of router, move the router to the right. That makes the router want to hug the fence and pull in and not away from the guide.