This is a reflection on two months of fairly heavy use, with some lessons learned.
1. You can use horrible materials - and live to tell the tale.
I originally planned to use extruded polystyrene and 4mm MDF, but couldn't get the former without silver foil on it, or the latter in a large sheet; so settled for
expanded polystyrene(the bobbly kind), sandwiched between two sheets of hardboard (like Masonite).Anyone who has used these will know how horrible they are to work with, and I did expect it all to fall to pieces quite quickly; but it hasn't!
I'm sure they wouldn't be very good for a long-lasting structure, but for a one-off special occasion small track,they have the virtue of cheapness, and are more robust than you think.
The only problem has been at the crossovers, where the polystyrene isn't rigid enough to firmly support the hardboard.This means that distortion can occur and cars can come to an abrupt halt as the guide shoe thuds into the point of the hard board.If I was doing this again, I think I'd back the hardboard at the crossover with a solid piece of wood or MDF, and rout the slots straight through.
2.Clear Varnish Isn't Always That Clear - and doesn't stay that way if you run slot cars on it:
After routing, I painted the hardboard with brilliant white gloss paint(after priming), but I didn't think it looked very slippery, so I gave the "roadway" a coat of clear polyurethane varnish - which went on and dried with a greenish tinge! I was dismayed enough by this; but had no idea how much rubber comes off tyres!
Contrast this with the pristine white in the "Tis the Season . . ." pictures.
I guess it looks pretty realistic by UK standards where snow is converted to filthy brown slush within minutes of falling; but I guess in North America, it just gets refreshed by more falling.
3.Seriously Consider Aluminium Tape:
I wanted to use the tinned Venture tape, as I thought a silvery sheen would look better with "ice", but Venture don't sell it in UK.
Then, I found a company in Cheshire who will cut aluminium tape to any width you want.
It's just as easy to lay as copper,seems to stick just as well,and doesn't tarnish as rapidly.You can overlap it and prick through the overlap to give electrical continuity. The only thing is you can't solder it (or, I can't), but the current supply is easily connected by putting a brass screw through the tape.
It's also about half to a third the price of copper tape.
4.Independent Power supplies for Solo Fun! (Relax - I know this is a family forum!):
I used inexpensive plug-in variable voltage regulated power supplies - one for each lane.
This not only allows easy turning down the voltage so that tiny members of the family aren't crashing all the time and getting fed up;
it also allows the controller on one lane to be fitted with a "Billy No-mates" on/off switch - you'd be surprised how difficult it is to beat a car that is going at the optimum constant speed! So the fun can go on even after everyone has gone home.
5. You don't have to have a large track to have a lot of fun:
The ice track is only 6x3ft 6ins;but everybody who has visited has had a ball with it.Just the joy of racing on it has kept everyone amused, and although I fitted it with dead strips for lap timing, in the event we have hardly used it.
Sorry this has gone on a bit.I know , for some it will have been statements of the dazzlingly obvious.
I've just finished helping my son with his portable Magracing track, of which I hope he'll post details soon.
I'm sticking to slot cars for now. There's a better Oval on the waiting list; and a hillclimb; and next year's ice track will be polycarbonate - I'd better live to be at least 100, that's for sure!
David.
