Building my second track.....Phoenix raceway

[Johnnyfly41]

I have decided, this will be the winter to build another track. My first routed track was lost in a house fire in July of 2012, which is where the hobby died for me and my kids. Time to get back into it. Building my first track was one of the most fun projects I have ever done. It was 80' length, 3 lanes, taped. 3.75" lane spacing and occupied about 8.5' by 24.5' of floor space. I built it modular, in boxes, big mistake. Way too much work and cost.

My new track will borrow from many things about the old Pretzel City Speedway track... such as....

Three lane road course

3.75" spacing,,, err,,, maybe 4" as I do have some 1/24th cars.....

Routed using the flexible strip method for smooth flowing realistic driving lines.

Plasti Dip coated surface versus paint. Great grip, remains clean as in does not come off on the tires, rubber builds on it improving the already great grip, easy on cars, non abrasive..

Same basic footprint, about 8' by 24' of maximum usable space.



Things I will do differently....

Built like a commercial track, no tables, just using the triangles of plywood for support. large open areas in the middle will remain open. Some areas for minimal scenery, trackside scale berm and scrub brush etc.

1/4" braid instead of copper tape

Much more elevation change than my first track

Not modular, assembled in place, though, braided and built with "cut points" or separate points in mind where the track could be cut apart/taken apart should it need to be moved ever.

I have a sketch I would like to share, but, I have forgotten how to do that on this forum. I cannot copy and paste it, I think I need to have the picture hosted somewhere ??? I will work on that.


Next step, I am going to lay it out on the floor in the room in heavy brown paper and actually sketch it out as a pattern.

I would love to hear any and all advice and comments.... we all learn from each other.

thank you,

John

[Johnnyfly41]

OK, here goes, trying to post the sketch....

[Pappy]

John,

Here's how I built my track. It's on a base that I can roll around and everything unbolts in case I need to move it. I've been planning a new larger 6 lane track and I'm going to build it the same way as this one. When you figure all the time and material to build two piece adjustable wooden legs it's not any harder to build a base that rolls around. I'd go with 4" lane spacing with 6" gutter on the outside and at least 3'" gutters on the inside of the turns. My new track will have 4" gutters on the inside with 4" lane spacing and slightly larger radius turns on the inside lanes.

http://slotblog.net/topic/31554-butchs-track/

http://slotblog.net/topic/43053-finklem ... race-park/

[mattb]

i agree with all that Butch said and add this. I don't care much for triangular plywood legs and ended up using 2 X 6's witha shoe on the bottom for legs on my track. I used 2 X 4's as cross braces under the track. Screwed the 2 X 6's to the cross braces and then added the shoe when I had the proper height. I can take some pix if needed. That doesn't roll around, but it is stable enough to walk on.

I used 1/2 inch mdf, tried using glue and a nail gun, but found screws really work much better and filling the screw head recess's was very minor. Glue and screws are really solid. I would build in sections, bolt it all together, rout it in one long run. Braid in one continuous section. It will be a little more of an issue to take it apart and move it, but it is still easy to do by just cutting the braid at each joint and then unbolting the sections. All it takes is a pass thru repair to connect the braid on re-assembly. this is really easy to do.

Unlike Pappy, I am just a hack wood worker so I found this one piece braiding and routing after the track is assembled make it easier for a hack.

I have pix of most anything. Butch uses a wood for side walls, I used mdf and rolled it up in 12-14 inch widths and left it a couple days to take that curved set, then I screwed/glued side walls on, and cut off the height after it was attached.

Spacing seems good if you are mostly 1/32. For 1/24 I would rout 5 inch lane centers if doing it again.

just my take

[slothead]

I also endorse having a track on a movable table if possible. My 6' x 16' routed road course has a supported surface that overhangs a 4' x 8' table mounted on heavy duty casters. The back straight is against a wall but it was moved around as needed during assembly and lane taping. I plan to pull it out again this winter to work on adding scenery. Plus, I have a big shelf under the track and a roll away bed under the shelf. There are big elevated storage areas under each end and room for a rolling cloth drawer dresser under the front start straight for storing cars.

While I couldn't get the track out of its home in the finished and heated barn loft without serious dismantling, it turned out great and has been a good excuse to buy dozens and dozens of new RTR cars.

[Johnnyfly41]

Thanks guys for your replies !!!!!

Wow, Butch, I have to hand it to you for that rolling track base, that is amazing, beautiful work !!! !!!

I am fine with stationary, as it's going to pretty much fill the space, there is nowhere that I could roll it to anyway... I could move it 5' in three directions, but, that would be it. Add to that, it's going to go around a pillar, so, really, could not move it much at all. It's going to be semi permanently assembled, but, I will have break points where I will take the braid down through the joint, join it back up underneath... So, it can be taken down and moved if ever that is needed, which, with any track is going to happen eventually. Yes, I have decided 4" lane spacing would be best... Good for close 1/32nd racing and ok for the occasional 1/24th scale cars. Tinned copper braid, with the tape already on it,,,, and yes, wide gutters. Thinking to just make the entire roadway 20" wide. This track will have more elevation changes than my first track. Footprint will be about 8' by 23' and probably 65' running length would be a guess. A 20" road width wont really increase the footprint of the track and it gives me room to vary lane position, flare entry and exit to corners etc., to create a real driving line. My first track was done with the Luf flexible strip method and the smooth flow to that track and realistic driving lines was just awesome. I used copper tape on that track and it held up pretty good, but, going with braid this time. My track surface will be Plasti Dip, rolled on. It's what I used on my first track and it's an awesome surface. Mixing black and white, I got a pretty realistic grey roadway. Plasti Dip is tough and resilient, good initial traction, does not sluff off on tires and slick up.... rubber lays down on it so the grip is always improving AND it's easy on the cars finish should they end up on their lids. A bit more expensive than paint, but, well worth it to me. I make my own urethane tires and they are awesome on this surface. I am going to lay out brown shipping paper and lay the track out full scale in the space, and use it as a full size template. I will use 1/2" MDF. I am going to go with the plywood triangular legs, for simplicity and ease of setting elevations. Track will have 2x2's transverse mounted under it to attach the leg triangle to. I will probably use 1 x 2 firring strips around the edge of the track, glued up to stiffen up the track once it's in place and the elevations are set.

[Pappy]

John,

Here's a link to another track I just sold that has an 8' x 24' footprint on adjustable legs. It's four lanes with 4" lane spacing, 6" outside gutters and 3" inside gutters. So it's definitely possible to do a 4 lane track with 4" lane spacing in an 8' x 24' space.

http://slotblog.net/topic/86612-for-sal ... rack-sold/

[mattb]

I gave a lot of thought to being able to move my track if and when it is necessary. Had plans to run braid at the face of each joint and butt them together, maybe wire nite if necessary. Once I had the track assembled and routed, it was so smooth I didn't want to mess up the joints by braiding down the face, which requires a shallow gain for the braid. I went ahead and ran braid in one continuous run. No joints, extremely smooth and can still be easy to move. It is in sections, all it needs is to cut the braid and take it apart. It is pretty minor job to fix the braid when track is put back together. Cut the braid about 10 inches past the joint in the direction you run. Drill a couple holes and do a pass thru patch like this picture.
pass thru joint.JPG
You can still run the braid across the joint and make your connection away from the joint. I actually think you could probably just solder the braid back together, but I haven't tried that.

The other point about moving a track, is that most tracks get put in dumpsters and not moved! You put a lot of work into a sectional track and if and when you are done with it either nobody wants it or you sell it so cheap that the new owner doesn't mind patching it back together.

We all wish used tracks were worth something, but mostly they are white elephants. The tracks Butch builds are the exception.
Remember this guy is a pro and not a hack like me and a few others that build home tracks.
The pre-taped braid and router bit from Slot Car Corner make it much easier than it ever has been to build a track.
P1010006.JPG

[Johnnyfly41]

Once again guys, great information and input. I have decided, when I am building my track, if Butch is still on this forum, I can never post pictures of my handiwork !!!!! Wow, those tracks are works of art Butch !

MattB, you convinced me, silly to try and create break points in the track. I know I could do it and do it smooth, but, why bother. True, not much of a market for a custom built slot car track, unless your name is Butch.... Yes, I will be using the slot car corner router bit, and braid. Will be painting the slot and the gains for the braid before braiding this time too.

We had a house fire in July 2012 and my track was destroyed by the flood brought by the fire department. Amazing what happens to MDF when it gets soaked. Supports were about 24" apart under the track and the track surface sagged about 2-3" between those supports... Like wet pasta. So, my modular track got cut up by the restoration crew and thrown in a dumpster. My insurance company would give me whatever I asked for value for the track. I figured I had about 1200 dollars in it and a year of part time work.... So, I asked 2500 and they were happy with that. So, I guess I did "sell" my track for a pretty good price.

Anyway, I never did complete the scenery. Doing nice scale scenery was a struggle for me. It was a work in progress. Fun work, but, once you get racing, well, it's hard to stop.... There are some videos of us racing on the track. Here is one, my son Graham at about the age of 5 and I racing a couple of prepared Scaley V8 super cars....

Since I cannot seem to post pictures, at least I can post a link.

j

[Pappy]

John, that is a fantastic track and a great video. You aren't going to have any trouble building a new one.

If you have any questions on how I do anything don't be afraid to ask. I don't claim to be the best but I can usually figure out how to make it work.

[mattb]

I agree with Butch, looking at the track you built, you should have no problem building a braided track any way you want to attempt it. You did great to get $2900 from insurance. Obviously it sucks to go thru what you went thru, but at least your track had a cash value to you.

One thing about braiding a lane in one solid run is the electric flow is great and the track is really smooth.

[Johnnyfly41]

Thanks Butch,,,, I am a woodworker from way back. I actually began in production cabinet making at the ripe old age of 14..... I am 58 now. Building my track was my second favorite project of all time. First favorite, I made my wife a stand up paddle board out of cedar with pine accents.... I dont like paddle boarding, but, building the board was a blast. Building a track I guess is better, because I get something for me when I am done. My thing is getting a track I like to race on, that is fun and flowing and has the kind of features I like. I think my first track accomplished that. The only thing I did not like was those S's in the infield, would not do that again. If I let the roadway "S" I would route a mostly straight line through the S's, as in the way a car would naturally drive it. Having the slot do severe S turns, it's just not natural. Also, I find elevation change to my liking. This track has to reside next to the pool table, so, the "lowlands" will be on the side towards the pool table and the track will climb from there. Wish I could post a pic of my sketch, because I would really like your advice on it. I will keep trying.....

MattB, thanks. Actually, looking forward to doing braid... copper tape is kind of a pain... lots of power taps. So, for say 70' running length, I was thinking of doing two power taps for the entire track. Not sure what the cross sectional area of braid is, but, the current is only traveling 35' with one power tap worst case and probably the tape is more robust than say 14 gage wire. Does one need any more than one power tap ? Of course, I would feed on side of the lane at one point in the track and the other side across the track at mid point to even things out.

j

[mattb]

John, I ran leads to do a tap half way around my track. I have a 70 something lap length. I ran the full track without the tap and found out that I plenty of juice and amps all the way around with just the single connection. I can run any motor with no issues, but all our racing is done with cheap Chinese motors that don't draw much.

With your experience, you will end with a nice track like Butch does. Butch how many years did you spend building cabinets?

My experience is everything, but I'm just a hack at all of it. I'm better at building a garage than hanging the door. Caulk is always my best friend for my poor fitting carpenter work!

[Pappy]

[mattb]

Take this thread a different way! My grandfather was a carpenter back in the 20's-50's. He built kitchen cabinets back when they brought in plywood and built it all from scratch. He continued to do custom cabinet building after he retired until he was around 80 years old. My father could do anything and was a pretty good finish carpenter. I am one of those measure twice, cut once guys, but I still cut it too short!

Caulk is my best friend!