My first routed track has begun

[rick42]

Started thinking about this about a year ago. I have now decided to "attempt" my first routed track. I ordered , and have in , most of what I will need . I think. Started routing last weekend. Going good so far. But I am going very slow. Can you wood track builders share with me how you attached your braid to the MDF ? Glue or tape? I would like to hear different methods and the results before I decide . I did also get a gain bit from SCC for the braid slot. After I decide whether I will glue or tape , I will figure out the depth I need for the braid and do some testing on some scrap wood.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Rick

[73emgee]

Congrats on your start Rick. Initially I tried laying the braid with the 3M tape from SCC, I found this difficult for just one person. I ended up using the SCC pre-taped braid; very happy with this product and would use it again. You pay more for the pre-taped braid; but in my case, I felt it was well worth the price difference. I think the 3M tape would work fine, but recommend getting some helpers on tape laying day.

[RichD]

I suppose that you have seen this article: https://www.slotcarcorner.com/Reference ... rview-c86/
You can do all of the routing and braiding by yourself, but things will go a lot better if you have a helper. Be sure to wash the braid before you lay it down unless you are using the pre-taped braid.

[slothead]

I have 2 routed tracks - a 4' x 14' oval and a 6' x 14' road course. The oval came first and was meant to be a test track, but has now been in use for about 12 years and is still going strong. I routed the oval in sections with consistent corner radii, as though it was a plastic track. The road course was designed freehand and has flowing corner radii meant to match what actual driving lanes would be. It also has passing areas (3 1/2" lane spacing) and no passing areas (2" lane spacing). I used a flexible fence as a router guide and it worked out just fine.

Both track use copper tape and I have no complaints at all. The oval has uncountable thousands of laps on it and there's never been a problem. I planned to upgrade to braid if needed, but the copper tape is still working perfectly.

Slothead

[Nor Cal Mike]

On the four tracks that I have braided, I have always used the Scotch brand, double sided tape from SCC along with their 1/4" braid. Even with the extra step of routing the gains added to the job, I find laying braid much easier and enjoyable compared to copper tape. The braid smoothly bends around corners, there is no chance of breaking it or tearing it and electrical connections are a breeze. I have never had a problem with using it by myself. I simply lay the double sided adhesive tape down first, leaving the paper backing in place. I follow up with a homemade roller rolling it firmly over the paper backing to ensure the tape is well stuck to the surface. (SCC also sells a roller for this purpose last time I checked) Once the double sided tape is rolled down, I follow with the braid pulling up the paper backing as I go along. Once the braid is layed, I follow with the roller again to firmly press the braid onto the adhesive tape.

I paint the slots and gains with two coats of oil base, gloss enamel paint with the first coat thinned way down with mineral spirits to ensure good penetration into the wood, I have never had even a hint of braid lifting. As a testament to how well this 3M adhesive sticks, when I recently dismantled my Traveling Big D Oval, as I pulled the braid up, the wood ripped apart and that bonded with the 3M came with the braid. This track had even spent several winters outdoors under a tarp and the braid was still firmly stuck down that good.

[HomeRacingWorld]

[chappyman66]

My home tracks are copper tape.
I have built two braided tracks, and they were done with contact adhesive instead if the tape. Very messy and relatively slow.

For me, I would use the pre-taped braid instead of separate tape and braid but either way will work.

Don't forget that routing the gains should be done with the track flat. A banked curve will have varying depth on the gains if the banking is steep enough.

[rick42]

Well I have decided to go with tape instead of glue to attach the braid. I ordered 2 rolls from SCC yesterday. I figure the tape will be easier to get off if I mess up.

[RichD]

When you use the 3M tape you must paint the gains as was noted earlier, in addition you have to wash the braid in a solvent before you lay it down. Naphtha from a hardware store will do the trick.

[Nor Cal Mike]

The tape will work well for you. It is not hard to do and is pretty forgiving. If you pull too much tension you will break tape (I have a tendency to do that). If you happen to break it, just pull the last half inch or so of the paper backing up, overlap the joint and continue your run.

[rick42]

Is one particular paint better than the other to paint the gains for the tape ?

[Nor Cal Mike]

I think you will find that most people simply use the same latex paint in the gains that they use on the rest of the track. I use Rustoleum enamel in the slots and gains. But I do that mostly because I don't use MDF as most people do. My prefered board is particle board because I like its grainier texture with urethane tires. Because of that grainy texture I think a harder paint is better for applying copper tape or braid to. I also think the harder enamel surface is the best surface you will find for sticking the tape to. Just make sure what paint you use, that it is completely cured before laying the 3m tape.

[nhdungeonracer]

[SlotCarCorner]

Some great advice in the posts above - here are a couple of other items that may be helpful.

1) Whether you plan to install 2-sided tape yourself or use our pre-taped braid, preparing the gain is the key to getting the best possible adhesion. Take a trip to the local Walmart, Target, drug store, etc. and purchase an oversized emery board - you should be able to find one that is 3/4" wide (exactly the width between the outside edges of your gains). If you look closely at the gains after you route them, you'll see the MDF is "fuzzy". Since the 2-sided tape is .005" thick (about the same thickness as plastic food wrap), the smoother the surface you apply the tape to, the better the adhesion. Use the emery board to eliminate the "fuzz" and smooth the gains. Do NOT use a back-and-forth sanding motion - instead, flex the leading edge with your forefinger and push the emery board around each set of gains 2-3 times in a continuous motion (i.e. make a few laps of your layout). Now brush, vacuum, brush, vacuum and use a tack cloth to remove as much MDF dust as possible. At this point, you can apply your paint to seal the gains. Apply thin coats. If you need to sand between coats, remember to remove the sanding dust before applying the next coat. Make sure the paint is completely dry before applying tape (or pre-taped braid).

2) If you are installing the tape yourself, route a small length of gain using some scrap MDF. Ideally make part of the test gain straight and part a curve. Now practice applying tape. Start with the short straight section - you should be able to apply a couple of inches of tape at a time. Do NOT stretch or tension the tape as you apply it - just lay it in the gain. Use care to install the tape with one edge against the back edge of the gain - this will ensure the braid has tape underneath it across the entire width of the braid. When you get to the corner, you will need to work with much shorter lengths of tape. The tighter the corner, the shorter the tape segments you'll need. Again, be careful not to stretch or tension the braid.

When you are comfortable with applying tape to your test gain, it's time to apply the tape to your actual track. If possible start on a straight section. Select a lane with the largest corner radius first - the tape will be easier to apply. As you get the hang of applying tape to corners with large radii, you'll find it easier to make the transition to corners with a tighter radius.

3) If you are installing the tape yourself, do NOT pull the tape back up if (when?) you make a mistake (you'll end up with a real mess - ask us how we know...). Instead, use a SHARP hobby knife to cut the tape where it was last applied successfully in the gain before the mistake occurred. Make a light score in the backing/tape with the hobby knife. Remove the "bad" tape. Press the edge of the "good" tape in the gain firmly to make sure it is adhered to the MDF/gain - then carefully peel back about 1/2" of the protective backing to expose the top surface of the tape/adhesive. Trim any "bad" tape from the roll as well to ensure you have a good tape edge to restart with. Now splice the tape by overlapping about 1/2" of the tape from the roll with the 1/2" length of exposed tape/adhesive of the last good section of tape in your gain. Continue taping.

Finally, we're here to help. If you have ANY questions about your track braiding project, please don't hesitate to give us a call.

:text-thankyouyellow:

[rick42]

How common are little routing mess ups while cutting the slots ? Had a couple of small mess ups. Kinda discouraging when routing is going smooth , then a small mess up . mainly when I'm starting back on the end of a run. Got some Durham's rock hard and fixed em. I hope. Will continue routing today.