proper gain depth for braid

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proper gain depth for braid

Postby deslot » Sun Nov 22, 2015 11:31 am

Hello everyone, back after along absence. A few questions on braid depth how much does the painting of gains add? What is the thickness of the 3m tape without the backing, and lastly what would you recommend the depth of the braid be to track surface. thanks in advance.
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Re: proper gain depth for braid

Postby SlotCarCorner » Sun Nov 22, 2015 12:31 pm

Hi,

If it is the 3M tape we offer, it is 5-mil thick (.005") which is about the same thickness as Saran Wrap. Practically speaking, it's easier to just make believe it's not even there when discussing braid depth. We've seen quite a bit of discussion over the years regarding the proper braid depth, how to measure braid depth with calipers and dial gauges, etc.. Interesting discussions but track builders tend to make it way, way more complex than it needs to be. Here's what we recommend - it's low tech but it works without fail:

1) Using a scrap piece of MDF, route a test slot (in fact, route 3 or 4 of them). Now route a test gain using one of the test slots setting the router bit depth to .040" as a starting point. Paint the test gain and wait for the paint to dry to the touch (it doesn't have to be thoroughly dry since you won't be installing the tape - just dry to the touch)

2) Take a piece of "pristine" braid about 6-8 inches long and lay it in the test gain. Again, don't worry about the 3M tape

3) Now slowly rub your forefinger over the braid where it meets the MDF surface. Your forefinger will tell you instantly if the braid is "proud" (slightly above the MDF surface), flush (even) or slightly recessed. If proud or flush, route another test slot, adjust your router bit depth just a little deeper and retest.

4) When your forefinger tells you the braid is slightly recessed you're good to go!

8-)
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Re: proper gain depth for braid

Postby deslot » Sun Nov 22, 2015 12:39 pm

Thank you for the insight, i received braid and tape, also gain bit from you very quality stuff.
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Re: proper gain depth for braid

Postby nhdungeonracer » Sun Nov 22, 2015 12:42 pm

The only thing I will add is if you are running metal chassis'd cars, it wouldn't hurt to go a little deeper with the braid.
Somewhere around .010 to .020" below the surface. This would help prevent the chassis from shorting across the rails in a deslot.
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Re: proper gain depth for braid

Postby deslot » Sun Nov 22, 2015 5:31 pm

Got it done gonna have 5 to 7 thousandths below surface level. Thanks for all the info :)
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Re: proper gain depth for braid

Postby deslot » Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:27 pm

should i elevate the track before i braid or can i braid and then elevate. Not sure
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Re: proper gain depth for braid

Postby SlotCarCorner » Wed Nov 25, 2015 12:52 am

Hello,

Not sure if you are referring to braiding the area under the elevation, the elevated portion of the track or both. So let's cover both just in case.

In general, it will be easier to braid portions of your layout that pass under an elevated section before adding the elevation. Since the elevation doesn't come into play (interference), braid installation should be straightforward. Rolling the braid to ensure it is firmly in place will also be easier. If this isn't possible (e.g. you've already put the elevated portion in place and removing it would be a pain) you should be able to braid underneath with a little care and planning. If you are braiding your track in sections, you'll need to figure out how much braid you need for the section under the elevation and carefully install the braid - be careful not to bend/crease the braid as you work to install it under the elevation. If you are installing your braid in one long run, you might want to consider adding a braid drop before and after the elevation so you are working with shorter braid runs.

For the elevation, it depends - here are a few considerations (not intended to be a "complete" list):

1) If the elevation will be installed as a discrete section, it may be easier to braid beforehand and then install. You can setup the section on a table or saw horses where installing the braid is straightforward and comfortable. Once the braid is installed, you can then install the elevated section. This approach works best when the elevated section has relatively gradual inclines and declines.

2) If the elevated section is sturdy and easily accessible, you might want to install the elevation and then braid it. "Sturdy" and "easily accessible" are the keys here.

3) If the elevated section is difficult to get to (e.g. you'll have to climb up on the table and do your best Harry Houdini impersonation or suspend yourself from the ceiling with ropes and pulleys to access the elevation), consider braiding the elevated section beforehand. If the elevated section isn't a discrete section, consider adding a braid drop at the beginning and end of the elevation to make it easier to "manage" the braid while installing.

4) If the elevated section has unusually abrupt changes in inclines and/or declines, you might want to install the elevation first with the abrupt climbs/drops in place and then braid. If you install the braid when the elevation section is "flat" and then "bend" the elevated section to put the abrupt inclines/declines in place, the braid may lift - particularly at/near the crease of a sudden climb.

Again, not an exhaustive list list but hopefully enough to help you through your project.

8-)
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Re: proper gain depth for braid

Postby WB2 » Wed Nov 25, 2015 6:43 am

Perhaps SCC could include a depth gauge with the braid router bit.
When the "pros" route a track, they could do a straight piece of MDF with slot and gain, then chop it into 1" or 2" pieces as a gauge.
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