by waaytoomuchintothis » Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:38 pm
I seem to be the one with some loose time this morning, so I'll jump in with both feet. There will be more like me, so keep checking this topic. I won't comment on digital, anyone who wants to know what I think doesn't have to look very long on HRW to find out.
But about scales and track types, I'll tell you anything you want to know that I already know or can find out for you. You are coming into this the right way- asking the right questions already. What has been said about scale is certainly true, but I would add that there is a lot of satisfaction that comes from straddling two scales. There are virtually no 1/32 plastic models of the cars you want to convert to slot cars out there, just a very few snap kits with almost no details. It says a lot that those few are so much fun to convert that just about everybody has a few stashed for a rainy afternoon. But for selection, the overwhelming better alternative is 1/24 scale. In ready-to-run cars, look to 1/32 scale, and you will see an amazing variety, and there are many fine manufacturers from starter cars to very sophisticated marvels of engineering and modelling. Its all there.
One more thing about scale... You should take into account how much space you need. If your house/apartment/room is small, HO is the clear choice. A bit bigger, you can still have a long track with 1/43 or 1/32 (most folks fall into this category), and if you have what amounts to a spare house, you can go as large as 250 feet in 1/24 with no real trouble, just a jumper here and there. The important thing to remember is that you can run smaller cars on a big scale track- you can't run large cars on a small scale track with the same satisfaction. As has already been advised, Carrera track is sized to handle 1/24, so 1/32 and 1/43 do just fine on it.
Now, about the track itself, there are some things to consider. If you choose plastic track, you can use magnets (accursed magnets to some of us), and of course the digital stuff goes on plastic. Within the plastic group, there are some with very high conductivity, but they may rust over time, and there are low conductivity that never rusts, but requires a higher level of voltage, so you will be continually retuning cars for 9, 12, or even 18 volts, as you go from track to track among friends. Also, the track surface is important. Ninco track is so gritty it wears tires out, besides it costs too much. Carrera is low conductivity, larger scale, and has a pleasant surface that grips fine but doesn't eat tires. Scalextric Sport track is very high conductivity and has a good surface, but needs to be wiped down from time to time to keep it from rusting. Scalextric Classic can be had very economically, but the slot is shallow, and some cars will have a lot of trouble on it. The available shapes of plastic track varies, too by brand name, so look at that, too.
If you choose a wood track (the favorite of veteran slotters by far), you can have a braided conductor that will last forever, or copper tape that almost lasts forever and costs about 1/8th of the cost of braid. A wood track's surface is changeable. You can paint it any way you want, with any kind of additive you want (grit, magnetic material, etc). Best of all, you can just change it, cheaply, to another surface with masking tape and a paint roller. To reconfigure plastic track, you take it apart and put it together in a different shape. To reconfigure wood track, you fill in the old slot with Bondo, and re-rout it. Simple, either way. Good luck, welcome, and keep coming back with questions- we'll get you there.