Painting 101

[Daytona]

I never use my sprayer for 1:1 on a scale car, it doesn't translate well, too much too fast. I also don't use the canned sprays of ready to use stuff, I use a quality product made to spray from a sprayer not a can. The same for the primer, paint and top coats. The propellant in the cans can have a negative effect on the contents. Thanks for the tutorial.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

daytona, I suspect you are talking about a different kind of 1:1 spray gun. The only kind that is advocated here is micro-adjustable so you can't get too much too fast.

I don't like 1:1 paints on most things because the pigment size is so large it fills in the details on the body, but the 1:1 spray gun shoots model paint just fine. Its just a matter of adjustment.

[RazorJon]

yep its tried and trued, 1:1 touch up gun with cheap paints = fine paint job :banana-dance:

Shotgun I luv u :music-rockout:

[Revver]

Clarification:

Krylon Color Master Primer

then water based acrylic

finished with clear lacquer top coats?

[Revver]

One clear is not superior? Isn't
Future a floor wax?

[chappy]

Hi Revver, Future is not actually a wax, but a clear acrylic top coat . It is used on floors yes but is more of a clear acrylic paint than anything else.
Bob C.

[HomeRacingWorld]

No. None are superior. I use Future. Use what you want.

[McLiams]

ShotgunDave,

On the Krylon rattle cans, I have had a persistent problem with the nozzles clogging...sometimes at the very first use. Nothing seems to cure this, not soaking in laquer thinner, turning the valve to a different 'clock number' in the can, nothing. Have given up on Krylon, even though several others have lauded it. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mc

[mattb]

P1010004.JPGI have sprayed about every kind of finish there is since the days of Dupont Duluxe enamel. You old guys remember that stuff. I've had lots of experiments with spray cans and the Krylon stuff is pretty good for canned paint. The best and easiest results I have is with Tamiya spray lacquer. It is a little pricey, but a can will do 2-3 cars. There is no cleanup to speak of, just put the cap back on when you are done. The paint is really finely atomized and that makes it spray so evenly that it is easy to get a smooth as glass finish. I also use their clear for decalled cars. For ease of use, this stuff is hard to beat. I did get a couple cans of Testors lacquer and it also sprays nicely. I got a bigger can of clear from Hobbylinc and it gave me the same issues as on the silver porsche early in this thread. I had a nice Tamiya metallic green and when I put this brand of clear over it, the paint moved around and lost all the slickness it had. Had to do it all over. I now stick only to Tamiya or Testors and while I mix them, I don't use any other brand. I do use primer when necessary, but only if there is flaws in the plastic. If I am painting over raw plastic, I put the color right on the plastic. The less finish put on anything the better it works out.

I always do the same routine for prepping. If it is a painted car, it soaks in a Mean Green or The Purple cleaner (super clean?). That will strip about any finish I've run across and the time or two it didn't the old finish was so hard and dry as to not cause problems. One note about lacquer you never want to paint over an old finish. the hotter lacquer thinner most always soaks into the old finish and then you get the wrinkling and lifting we have all seen before.

After the stripper bath, I wash with hot water and a tooth brush, no soap. I dry with paper towels, no rags or cotton towels. Then it gets a bath in rubbing alcohol. 5-10 minutes does it. Paper Towel dry, then a hair dryer. I have a couple coat hangers I use to hold the body. Hot glue is good idea. I have always used tape under the body. Of course, I try to not touch the outer body at all and wash my hands with the alcohol before I put it back in it's bottle. I use these chemicals over and over.


The real trick is to paint 2-3 coats depending on coverage. Lightly, lightly, lightly. Just enough for the full surface to be wet with no dry spots.

This process has worked good for me. No problems with paint being slick, no substrate or oil problems and virtually no clean up. I have cans of Tamiya that are 15 years old and still spray fine.

The cars pictured are all painted using this process. Nothing fancy, just better then the original plastic would look.

[Revver]

Thanks mattb. I was wondering about model spray paints but not any more.

My collection of spray paint includes: Testors Spray Enamel, Testors Spray Pla Enamel, Testors Model Master Custom Enamel, Testors Model Master Clear Lacquer & Pactra Candy 'namel.

I use the lacquer over decals on bare plastic.

Also, if a can doesn't feel warm enough, I run some hot water in the sink and let the can float on it's side for a few minutes. I think warmer paint has a lower viscosity so it will spray finer and lay out thinner.

[mattb]

I think warming the can is an old trick that keeps paint from running easy. It may also help to atomize it better. I've had terrible luck using any spray enamel. It seems to take forever for it to dry and ends up with fingrprints and dirt when you try to assemble it. I've heard of guys using the machines that you use to dehydrate food to get enamel to dry fast and hard. Heat never worked for me, I tried that, but it didn't help the paint cure either. It was the switch to lacquer that finally got me the results I wanted with a dry finish in a day or so. Since I am a hack and not a great builder like a lot of guys, I need all the edge I can get.

I use Testors enamel in a bottle for brush/detail work, which I am no good at!

[waaytoomuchintothis]

I use Tamiya lacquer most of the time, Testors Master Modeler Lacquer when I need a match to a 1:1 car. I always, without exception, warm the paint, year 'round. I have an old Mr.Coffee that works perfectly. I just drop the can in the pot (off the machine), on my table, and it does fine.

I use Future always, just because it is universal (doesn't craze anything unless you don't let the paint gas out properly), and the clearcoat isn't critical anyway. It only serves to protect decals and paint from scrapes in slot cars, which is all I paint. Sometimes, no clearcoat is necessary, anyway. Some scale representations require a non-shiny surface to show the color choice. In those cases the paint sheen itself is more than enough. I have even sprayed a satin finish before.

[Revver]

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Ironically, our own master painter of faces is our Aussie girl, (she who must be obeyed in painting), because she is invariably correct. Lynne, do you feel the need to educate? I know we have been through all this many times before over the years.

[McLiams]

Dave,

Thanks.