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I've been building cars for many years now & always use aerosols, either Tamiya, Model Masters or Auto paint. For quite a few years I've toyed with the idea of switching to an airbrush but I've always been happy with the finish & made do with the limited colours available in cans. Anyway I'm ready
To make the switch as I want more options for colours.

School me please! Gravity or suction feed? Single or dual action? All I know is I prefer to spend a bit more on a good product rather than buy the cheapest option. I know I want a compressor with a tank so the motor is not always running. I've called a few local hobby shops here & they all recommended cheap Chinese unheard of brands, which was a little disappointing.

Also I paint a lot of Metallic paints so I'm not sure if this will affect which airbrush I'll need.

It's a minefield of different options & brands. Can anyone recommend on what you use for brands & models for airbrush & compressor.

Greg there's nothing wrong with a cheaper comp unless you want to go the whole 9 yards with a quality quiet one but they are pricey. I recommend you spend your money on a quality air brush I personally use an Iwata gravity feed dual action and I'm very happy with it. That being said I also use a much cheaper suction feed to clear coat I seem to get better results spraying clears with it :twocents-mytwocents:

I have both Iwata gravity and suction and I use the suction more than the gravity I have the Iwata compressor with no tank and it purrs like a kitten, very little noise, I have used Cratex, paints and the very cheap paints with very good outcome, as for the clear I still use rattle cans for the convenience.

Nail polish if thinned right will work in a airbrush, but I have never used it

Hope this helps Greg

There is no law that says that you have to be in the same room with a noisy compressor. I don't have a dedicated compressor for spray painting, mostly because I normally use rattle cans, so I use an automotive compressor and that is loud. You can buy a 25 foot air hose and put the compressor in another room, or in my case outside.

I had decided not to respond, since you got the best advice already as far as I know. Then Micromark sent me a sale catalogue that actually has good sale prices on quality stuff.

You need to look at this. http://www.micromark.com/

Hi Greg I just bought an Iwata gravity feed - paid about $150 for it - I am happy with how it works - I have only painted a couple of cars so far. I thought about getting one of the $30=$70 brushes but decided that I might regret it and bit the bullet. (Mind you $150 is probably a cheap airbrush when you look at the prices of some) I use an air compressor that I got from Aldi - $90 with two brushes - the brushes are average but work - the compressor seems fine it has adjustable pressure and a small tank.

Single or Dual action refers to the trigger single action sprays air and the paint at the same time when you push down on the trigger. Dual action sprays air when you push down but to control the paint the trigger also slides back. This gives you greater control over the spray pattern and paint volume. It's like the difference between an aerosol can and a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle

I'll chime in here. I'm extremely biased, but only because I've been shooting paint and coatings since the Johnson administration. Here's a link to some of my finished pieces ... viewtopic.php?f=8&t=16855

Single action or dual action? Dual action of course, because of it's versatility. Only the DA allows the operator to variably meter the amount of liquid paint entering the air stream, while on the fly. The user can shoot light dry paint films, or heavy liquid films simply by easing the index finger forward or backward. What does that really mean?




It means that by simply wigging your finger one can quickly shoot a uniform liquid film as seen on the black sub base coat of this 33 Willys project ....

(the fluid lever is pulled back, allowing maximum fluid to be metered)







... or direct paint so gently that the atomized droplets or flakes can be counted as they accumulate ....

(the lever is only partially opened, allowing pinpoint control of minimum liquid)



....and then one can switch back and hammer the clear on in successive liquid coats, as quickly as you can change the spray cup and flush the nozzle.

( lever all the way back delivering maximum materials)

Dual action simply refers to the function of the "go button" or fluid lever. Action one is pushing down and and engaging the the preset air pressure. The brush will start to hiss as the air escapes around the nozzle. No paint will flow until you ease the lever back, which would be action two. The farther back you pull the lever the more liquid paint is allowed to enter the air stream.

For example:



The gold metalic color base is shot with the metering lever pulled all the way back. The dark cherry metallic is worked carefully up from the edges with the fluid lever barely engaged. The gold frost is shot over the top with the lever a quarter open, using an exaggerated spraying distance. It is lofted over the top and allowed to accumulate slowly.





The emerald green metalic is applied like the cherry at the bottom, only it is worked down from the top using no more than a quarter of the lever's available travel.





Once the deeper emerald was color built to taste, I switched to lime ice metalic and frosted the entire model from distance using a quarter of the lever.

There is no real comparison between the two designs, other than they both shoot paint. In order to paint well, one must be able to regulate air pressure, viscosity, and liquid flow. One design is varialbe, the other just blows paint at a comparatively fixed rate. I prefer siphon feed to gravity feed, because it allows quick material changes on the fly, while one is still in the flash window. While I fully appreciate the top loaders, I find them to be a bit messy in practice, for what I do. I do a lot of wet on wet application, so timing is critical.

Well boys...THAT is an answer.

Appreciate the great advice.

good answer with pictures :text-goodpost:

Thanks for the help everyone. I haven't replied until now as I've been researching & taking all the info on. For the airbrush I'm going to go with a Dual action, gravity fed Iwata eclipse HP.CS. Seems like it gets good reviews & a few of the better builders on another modelling forum use it.

I'm still stumped on a compressor. I have found conflicting info on the compressor. I've called a few airbrushing & hobby shops & they all recommend different price points. One place said for spraying cars you need a tank on it & the recommended one to suit the airbrush is $700. Whereas another place recommended a $50 one, no tank. Further research needed on the compressor.

Thanks for the help guys. It's s big step to switch over to an airbrush from cans. Just hope the learning curve is not to steep!

Y'all promise not to laugh? :shhh:

Some of those familiar with VW products might remember that they powered the Bugs windshield washer via the spare tire. Like your not gonna get a flat tire during rainy weather. I digress.

Here's a low buck McPressor to bridge the gap between canned air and the high priced spread. Keep in mind this creation was borne from necessity. The cost of canned air was cutting into gas and beer money, so I hillbillyed a most workable abomination.

All ya need is one of those silly 12v rescue tire pumper uppers, and an automobile inner tube. Obviously the tube is your air tank and ya gotta plan ahead a bit. A trap and filter is advisable. Keep your eyes open at garage sales, the pump can often be had for little or nuthen'.

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Yes, one of the very best airbrush men I knew did the same thing. He was one of those guys that just had the talent and man could he lay down a coat.

He had the same setup in his garage. He had an old truck inner tube mounted in the rafters of his garage and would just fill it with his regular compressor.

He said it was perfect for those late night paint sessions. He wouldn't wake his wife!