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Working on a couple of RMS bodies and ran out of my testers putty, I was wondering is automotive spot/glazing putty would be safe to use on a RMS resin body? Also, is there a paint or clear I should avoid using, I have Rust-oleum crystal clear and automotive enamel clear coats. Would they be to 'hot'? If so, what do you us? just don't want to waste alot of but fun and enjoyable work!

John W.

John, I use automotive Spot Putty available at any store on my bodies all the time. ZERO issues.

As for enamels - some guys love them. I have not used them in 20 years and have had nothing but issues. I only use Duplicolor lacquers off the shelf from any auto store and that includes their primer and clear coat, or Future as my clear.

However, if you started with enamel, I'd stick with it and whatever you do don't shoot lacquer over it or it will lift.

The rule is enamel can go over cured lacquer, but lacquer will always lift enamel if it is not fully cured. In my world I'd never try that though as cured or not I've had issues.

Shotgun Dave is the paint pro though and he may know some tricks to help you.

Thanks Dave, the no lacquer over enamel does explain a little problem I had...... :lol: :lol:

I used Testor's putty years ago with no problems, but lately the stuff that I bought had separated in the tube and was useless. I bought two tubes from different stores, but in both cases it had been sitting on the shelf too long. I did try kneading the tube or squeezing out the contents and mixing them up, but the stuff refused to set. I have also used automotive spot putty in the past, but I have not been able to find it lately. I did buy some two part spot putty however.

Spot putty is fine, but the air dried putty is basically just thick lacquer. I think Testors and Tamiya are the same thing. There is an automotive spot putty that is polyester based and it uses a hardener to dry thoroughly very quick. I use this, but it comes in a 1/2 quart can and may not be practical just for model car usel I think the product I have is made by Evercoat. Plain old two part bondo will work, but not sand or work as easy as spot putty.

Ditto on what Doc said.

I have been using Squadron Green and or White putty and find it the best for the "extreme makeover" I am doing with my bodies. Dries quickly, is very strong, and you can really sand it to a fine surface.

Squadron has changed packaging. Nothing like changing something you did not need to, but just so you are aware.



Now the green and white are the same packaging, just look for the name change.

I use auto spot putty all the time on resin cars. Comes in a toothpaste style package, and is inexpensive when compared to "hobby brand" fillers. I use it on styrene too, but it does react with the plastic, so you need to be careful while applying it.

Cheers

Dan

Good to know Harry.

Canadian Tires sells auto body spot filler in the tube and they are 15 minutes away so that is where I go. For me a full service hobby shop is 5 hours away in Edmonton, so I am very used to internet shopping for most of my hobby supplies.

I am looking for good internet Brass supplier as I am about to put my ceramic honeycomb to the test. Do you know of any.

Cheers.

Dan

P1010001.JPGHere is a pic of the spot putty I use that doesn't shrink and dries chemically in a few minutes.