Clear Coating

[Audi1]

I've never liked clear coating very much; not to make it sound like I've been doing it for years, I just started about 9 months ago, but my first attempt was not a good one............. Since the., although I've had more successes, I've never liked it. It's the last step in painting/decaling a body and you can ruin a lot of good paint and decal work with a poorly applied clear coat (profound grasp of the obvioius, right? :lol: ).

So, I started with the products, to find the one that was easiest to work with. The clears that I tested were: Tamiya, Testors and Auto Zone's Dupli-color. No particular reason for testing only those 3; they were the ones that I had on hand. Of those three, Tamiya was the hottest (ate decals quickly), Testors was less hot and Dupli-color was the least hot. So, I chose to continue with Dupli-color clear.

Next was how to best apply it. For this, I made up a series of styrene strips, painted them as I usually do, decaled them and set them up for 6 different regimens of clear:

1. 1 heavy coat
2. 1 light coat + 1 heavy coat
3. 1 mist coat + 1 light coat + 1 heavy coat
4. 2 mist coats + 1 light coats + 1 heavy coat
5. 2 mist coats + 2 light coats + 1 heavy coat
6. 3 mist coats + 2 light coats + 1 heavy coat

When I say a heavy coat, I mean a wet coat.

I'm spraying them up now and will post pics of the 6 variations later today.............

Allan

[McLiams]

HHHMMMMM. Thinking there is a Speedway Auto Parts not very far away. Eagerly awaiting the results of your test, sir.

Mc

[loosewheel]

I just used Test or clear laquer last week to seal a Fly body and had good results. The decals look great.

[McLiams]

Temperature and humidity have some influence, too. The humidity was likely the first step on the path undoing #20.

Mc

[TuscoTodd]

I'll be interested to see how you make out as well!
My go to has been Dupli-Color clear (available at a number of different automotive chain stores) - as of the clears that are available locally , it seems to be the most "decal friendly" of the lot and offers up a very durable finish when cured and topped with a coat or two of wax. :)
For decals that I purchase - I typically do two light (not fully wet) coats with the recommended ten minutes between coats followed by one wet coat.
(The Chappy bodies I just did for the R.O.A.R. received that treatment)

Look forward to seeing your results! :D

[GPCruisr]

[Audi1]

[chappy]

A good test Allan.
I suspect that with the longer time between coats you will be on the money.
It will be nice to see your Cars after completing the clear using the better process with longer curing in between.
Another day another thing learned. Thanks Allan

Bob

[HomeRacingWorld]

Although I use a different method, I appreciate the work you have put into this.

Well done.

[urbanwarrior]

I use Tamiya almost exclusively. I do about 4 mist and 1 light coat with 20-30 minutes in between. I feel this allows the clear enough time to adequately gas out before the next coat. After this I let it set for 24 hours before 1-2 wet coats. Before I spray the wet coats I smell the car and see how much of a laquer smell I detect. If it's faint I go ahead and spray, if it's still relatively strong I'll wait a few more hours. This method works very well for me and for the most part I have excellent results, though I do have several examples where I rushed and paid for it.
The Ferrari and Aston I sent to Allan for the ROAR has this method used.
John

[mattb]

P1010001 (4).JPGTamiya clear lacquer is my first choice, Testors second. These are lacquers. I like to let decals set at least one day before the clear coat. I like a couple mist coats, 10 minutes or so apart, followed by one, maybe two wet coats. I haven't had any trouble.

I used Future in the past and used it on the #98 cars shown here, but I wan't as satisfied with it as I was the usual clear lacquer.

[bobbyraz49]

Thanks for sharing your results.

[Audi1]

Well, 3 mist coats and 3 light coats and all is good, so far. The wet coat goes on tomorrow..........

Actually, I'm keying off a comment that someone made about Tamiya semi-gloss and thinking that I many leave the cars with a flat finish, instead of a shiny one...........we'll see tomorrow.

Allan

[RichD]

DupliColor makes several types of clear, the last can that I bought was very hot and attacked both the paint and decals. I get the feeling that paint makes sometimes change their formulations, so when you get a new can you had better do some testing. I use Testors clear lacquer most of the time, Krylon Crystal Clear is also more decal friendly. Automotive clear coats resist chipping better, but are often too hot. I find that if I use light coats that it will be more likely that the finish will be rough. To be safe I put a couple of coats of Future on decals after they are on the car. Inkjet printed decals will smudge if you brush Future on them, so I always use Testors decal bonder before I cut the decals out and put them on the car.

[Cincyslots]

If it helps any, I brush on a thin coat of Tamiya clear over the decals to seal them. Then when dry I spray the entire car. Since doing this, I've not had any decals wrinkle.

Bruce