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I was up in the soo. If I remember the name of the shop I'll post it

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That is exactly the size I use for 1/32.

Good to see another member of the "Honeycomb Club".

Happy scratch building,

Keith

Well it's been a few months. I don't know why but 3 times I've ordered pins and gotten something else. So... Might just grab some nails at the local box store. For now using some .47 piano wire that I've put a drop of solder on to keep them from falling through the holes when I reposition the honeycomb.

Tried my first project on it. It's an old motor that for some reason pulls 6 amps. An old artin axle and some 1/8th inch tubing I had laying around. It ain't pretty but It seems solid, it is square, and the motor still runs! Though I forgot that the axle won't fully slide through so it's stuck now lol





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Hey Cur, I have more of the perfect nails than I will ever need. PM me your address.

If that axle gives you trouble, rather than start over with another, see if you can chuck the axle into a drill and spin the bugger out. I will say that re-using knurled axles tends to be a thankless method. Just a thought.

Thanks waaytoomuch I'll take you up on that offer. As for the axle... Everything is straight from the junk box... Well except the piano wire. It's just a practice piece, so if it ends up in the trash I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

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Okay, all set.

I got the chassis soldered up and the wheels and axles and motor mounted. The body parts need some joining (yes, there are five of them) and adjustment to make sure everything fits where it should, but I am excited.

It is looking much more like the real car with the body sitting lower. The exhaust headers might have to go. Right now they will rub on the rear tires, but perhaps a few cuts to change the angles might make them fit. If not it will be custom brass headers and exhaust pipes bent to fit where they can. At this point it is already beyond the approval of the rivet counters, so a fantasy exhaust may have to do. What am I saying, it was a Polistil after all, so it never passed the scale inspectors.

Hoping to have it finished tomorrow, and test it on Monday. Wish me luck, eh?

Keith

Hi Matt:

I always use the flat side of the board, but I don't think it would really matter, unless you were using extremely small pieces. I probably should get a new one, as this has been used so many times the blackened flux stains cover up my grid.

Cheers,

Keith

A word of advise to all honeycomb users. If you look at the first pic I posted with the Tyrell chassis pinned to the board, you will see the results of an accident I had earlier this week. I was putting the rear cross piece in on a long Studebaker chassis. Hoping it would not move around, I placed two pins behind and one in front. It was a tight fit so I pushed the brass piece down. Pop! The two back pins had been in the last row of holes, and the pressure broke out the sides of the holes.

A message to myself- Don't apply too much pressure to the pins in the board, especially to outside row. The ceramic of these tiles is a bit brittle, and too much lateral force will break them.

Also don't hammer on them. A club-mate of mine, who shall remain anonymous, tapped on his board with a hammer, and it shattered.

Happy honeycomb building,

Keith

Keith, you can just lay a piece of #320 grit sandpaper on a piece of glass and gently swirl the honeycomb flat side down for a few minutes. Then just draw your grid fresh.

Good idea. I considered doing something like that.

Keith

Could someone post a the source of where they obtained there ceramic boards?

I have ordered twice from sources on ebay and both of them arrived warped! I am talking around 1/8"!

Thank you

Alan