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This looks like a really neat and cheaper way to build a brass chassis. I thought I could make a brass chassis. So I purchased one of the honeycomb plates. Should've purchased 2. I marked a center line like shown and cut the notch for the guide with a small dremel bit and a small cut off wheel. Within the first half hour of using the plate, it broke in half. Now that I let the world know I'm a dumb dumb! I have a question. When setting the pins are they suppose to lock the material, square tubing, down tight. Should there be minute clearence or real tight? Any help would be appreciated...Tks....Bob

Hi Bob;

When I am pinning things down, I try to get the pins in as tight as I can, but not forced in. It is easy to crumble the edges of the holes if the pin is too tight. Depending on the material you're using, there is usually a way to pin tight enough, but you could use a small shim in front of the pin, if necessary.

I know some people have successfully cut out guide slots in these boards, but I haven't. I place the guide by putting three pins in a triangle inside the 3/16 inch tubing I use for the guide post holder. You can't solder with the guide in place anyway, so only the holder needs to be there. See pics #5 and on in build tutorial on page 1.

Welcome to the honeycomb club.

Keith

Some very impressive work and extremely well presented. Obviously, you have been doing this for some time with so many builds under your belt. These questions are just based on neophyte speculation. Is there any induced 'bridging' of the steel 'axle' rods, used to hold parts in place, when the elastic bands are installed? Would sliding the wood spacers out to the edge of the ceramic plate help to negate any (if there is any) tendency of the rod to arch up ( and possibly) displace parts?
Again, this is just a couple questions from someone who has never fabricated a brass chassis...but would like to try someday.

Hi McLiams;

I have built these cars using the wooden strips along the outside and also without, and haven't noticed any difference. 3/32 piano wire is quite stiff, and doesn't bend over these short distances. I often use it for the axles on these small cars also, I haven't got the heart to cut down a Slot.it axle. The piano wire axles work well, as long as you cut it right through and resist the temptation to bend and break it. That would distort the end and could give you a wobbly wheel.

If you've never built a brass chassis, get yourself a honeycomb board and the nails, and you will find it becomes very easy. I built a lot of chassis back in the 60s without any kind of jig at all, and they were always slightly wonky. This method is very easy as it holds everything in place until all the solder has hardened. I try to avoid soldering piano wire as it often doesn't hold as well, but brass solders up really nicely. Some people would want to get rid of the extra solder visible on my chassis, but I don't mind the extra weight, and it is all on the inside.

Give it a go, you'll find it easy. If you have any other question, fire away.

Cheers,

Keith

Retro Racer 44,

Thanks. It's on the 'bucket list'.

Beautiful work there.

Have to add a +1 for the pins Broman showed.



I picked them up after Turbokev's build and advice. VERY handy and worth the small price.

I was just reading through this thread, Now I know where these honeycomb plates are from I'll be ordering one soon.
It's an excuse to use my soldering iron. :text-yeahthat:

What standard ratio between tyre dia. and clearance are they designed for ?

Roland

Roland, for the
FF030 motors, smallest wheel diameter is 11mm (ground clearance 0mm), with 13mm wheels -> 1mm ground clearance.
FF050 (DSlot), 12mm smallest wheels
boxer (SH030A) 12.5mm (because there is a plate under the motor with 1.5mm (maybe this pod can be changed to accept 9.5mm wheels)

sorry for the OT

the soldering on a honeycomb plate is awesome, learned many things, thanks!

Saw some ceramic honeycomb plates at a local store, so I picked up the largest that they had. Seems to be just right for 143... Hoping it'll be good if I ever make the switch to 132. It's 3 and 13/16ths inches by 5 and 13/32nds inches

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Where did you get them? I haven't found any locally, and I'm in Michigan too. I may be taking a couple of medical road trips in the next few weeks, so if they are anywhere near Traverse City, I might grab some.