Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby pfuetze » Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:42 am

Roland, for the
FF030 motors, smallest wheel diameter is 11mm (ground clearance 0mm), with 13mm wheels -> 1mm ground clearance.
FF050 (DSlot), 12mm smallest wheels
boxer (SH030A) 12.5mm (because there is a plate under the motor with 1.5mm (maybe this pod can be changed to accept 9.5mm wheels)

sorry for the OT

the soldering on a honeycomb plate is awesome, learned many things, thanks!
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby MichiganCur » Thu Apr 14, 2016 6:49 pm

Saw some ceramic honeycomb plates at a local store, so I picked up the largest that they had. Seems to be just right for 143... Hoping it'll be good if I ever make the switch to 132. It's 3 and 13/16ths inches by 5 and 13/32nds inches

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby DManley » Fri Apr 15, 2016 3:17 am

Where did you get them? I haven't found any locally, and I'm in Michigan too. I may be taking a couple of medical road trips in the next few weeks, so if they are anywhere near Traverse City, I might grab some.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby MichiganCur » Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:46 am

I was up in the soo. If I remember the name of the shop I'll post it

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Fri Apr 15, 2016 11:52 am

That is exactly the size I use for 1/32.

Good to see another member of the "Honeycomb Club".

Happy scratch building,

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby MichiganCur » Sun Jun 05, 2016 3:32 pm

Well it's been a few months. I don't know why but 3 times I've ordered pins and gotten something else. So... Might just grab some nails at the local box store. For now using some .47 piano wire that I've put a drop of solder on to keep them from falling through the holes when I reposition the honeycomb.

Tried my first project on it. It's an old motor that for some reason pulls 6 amps. An old artin axle and some 1/8th inch tubing I had laying around. It ain't pretty but It seems solid, it is square, and the motor still runs! Though I forgot that the axle won't fully slide through so it's stuck now lol

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby waaytoomuchintothis » Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:12 pm

Hey Cur, I have more of the perfect nails than I will ever need. PM me your address.

If that axle gives you trouble, rather than start over with another, see if you can chuck the axle into a drill and spin the bugger out. I will say that re-using knurled axles tends to be a thankless method. Just a thought.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby MichiganCur » Sun Jun 05, 2016 7:33 pm

Thanks waaytoomuch I'll take you up on that offer. As for the axle... Everything is straight from the junk box... Well except the piano wire. It's just a practice piece, so if it ends up in the trash I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby waaytoomuchintothis » Sun Jun 05, 2016 7:44 pm

Okay, all set.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Sat Jun 11, 2016 6:09 pm

I have had a very productive week building about a half dozen chassis that I did not take pics of. Four of them are for new 3D Studebakers, two for me, and two for my friend, Ron, who did such a great job on the printing. One was an adjustable length chassis for a sports car. As I don't have the body yet, it has to be adjustable.

And then there is this one. Can anyone guess what it is going under?

Image

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby ShotgunDave » Sat Jun 11, 2016 6:29 pm

Looking good Keith. You've been busy!

I'm going to guess a Tyrrell?
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Sat Jun 11, 2016 6:48 pm

I guess it was too easy, eh? That second axle tube is a dead giveaway. Here is the rest of it.

Image

A club-mate sold me this car, a Polistil Tyrell P34-2 after he had given up trying to make it run well. He was just a lead weight and glued tires away, and I have run it in club races for a couple of years with good success. I had always wanted to put the body on a brass chassis and finally took the plunge.

I am not sure what Tyrell Polistil actually used for the copy, as any pics I can find with the large scoop on the open engine are pics of the Polistil slot car. The real cars had either a smooth rear engine cover, no scoop over the engine or a fancy one that came out on both sides of the driver's head.

Anyway, I intend to make it up as it is, only it will sit a bit lower on its brass chassis, and should look better. The wheelbase is close to scale by it is wider than it should be. If it works out well, it will be my entry in the Open Wheel Proxy under consideration.

Cheers,

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Sun Jun 12, 2016 12:15 am

I got the chassis soldered up and the wheels and axles and motor mounted. The body parts need some joining (yes, there are five of them) and adjustment to make sure everything fits where it should, but I am excited.

It is looking much more like the real car with the body sitting lower. The exhaust headers might have to go. Right now they will rub on the rear tires, but perhaps a few cuts to change the angles might make them fit. If not it will be custom brass headers and exhaust pipes bent to fit where they can. At this point it is already beyond the approval of the rivet counters, so a fantasy exhaust may have to do. What am I saying, it was a Polistil after all, so it never passed the scale inspectors.

Hoping to have it finished tomorrow, and test it on Monday. Wish me luck, eh?

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Mon Jun 13, 2016 2:02 pm

As I hoped, I managed to get my Tyrell finished yesterday. It helped that the Indycar race from Texas was rained out again, and the NASCAR race that we recorded was won by Logano who we don't particularly like, and Junior, our favourite driver crashed out early. After checking the results, we didn't even bother to waste the time watching.

Anyway, lots of time to file fit and prod the body onto the brass chassis and it came out looking like this.

Image

From this view it looks like the stock Polistil, but it should be a better runner. It also now has a Jack Rabbit motor in it.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Mon Jun 13, 2016 2:19 pm

Hi Matt:

I always use the flat side of the board, but I don't think it would really matter, unless you were using extremely small pieces. I probably should get a new one, as this has been used so many times the blackened flux stains cover up my grid.

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