Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby masmojo » Thu Nov 06, 2014 3:53 pm

bibbster wrote:Mas, check these builds out!

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=7887


Yeah, On reflection I guess part of the reason I have never used a plastic motor pod on a brass chassis is cause all the brass chassis I have made were 1/43 and it's simply not an option. Until Kyosho of course, but I think the motor pod on the Kyosho is the weak link in their system anyway so I wouldn't have used it even if it were an option! :roll:
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby LloydL » Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:16 pm

Mas, you could use an HO chassis as a pod in 1/43.


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Sorry Kieth, back to topic!
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby oz10k » Wed Dec 31, 2014 1:48 pm

FYI, #18 wire nails from Home Depot work pretty well. Although some had rough edges that I needed to file to get a good fit. The largest size at our store was 3/4", which are a bit short. Go for 1" if you can find them.

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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Williams1153 » Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:03 pm

This looks like a really neat and cheaper way to build a brass chassis. I thought I could make a brass chassis. So I purchased one of the honeycomb plates. Should've purchased 2. I marked a center line like shown and cut the notch for the guide with a small dremel bit and a small cut off wheel. Within the first half hour of using the plate, it broke in half. Now that I let the world know I'm a dumb dumb! I have a question. When setting the pins are they suppose to lock the material, square tubing, down tight. Should there be minute clearence or real tight? Any help would be appreciated...Tks....Bob
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Mon Mar 02, 2015 12:31 am

Hi Bob;

When I am pinning things down, I try to get the pins in as tight as I can, but not forced in. It is easy to crumble the edges of the holes if the pin is too tight. Depending on the material you're using, there is usually a way to pin tight enough, but you could use a small shim in front of the pin, if necessary.

I know some people have successfully cut out guide slots in these boards, but I haven't. I place the guide by putting three pins in a triangle inside the 3/16 inch tubing I use for the guide post holder. You can't solder with the guide in place anyway, so only the holder needs to be there. See pics #5 and on in build tutorial on page 1.

Welcome to the honeycomb club.

Keith
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:51 am

I decided to post another picture of a chassis for a Reprotec Fiat Abarth. No, the one that starts this post didn't break, and is still a regular on Luf's hill climb.

It is a bit of a long story, but it started when my friend and club mate, Don, offered to paint the body of my Mod Wars car for me. He has an airbrush and likes painting. I was thrilled and immediately agreed, but then got to thinking that I should do something for him in return. I had noticed that he had a couple of little Abarth bodies looking lonely in his shelf, and offered to build him a brass chassis for one of them as a thank you for the painting.

As usual, I laid out the brass pieces on my honeycomb board, and pinned everything down. I took a picture and it looks like this.

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I made a couple of refinements on this one and it went together very quickly. The motor mounting plate was one I had already made (I made about a dozen or more at one time) and changed the front plate by using 1/4 brass for the guide tongue. The axle tubes are three sizes of brass tubing telescoped together. My trusty 50 year old Weller did its job and now the chassis looks like this.

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It is now ready to be delivered, and he will add the necessary hardware.

Cheers,

Keith
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby McLiams » Wed Mar 25, 2015 3:52 am

Some very impressive work and extremely well presented. Obviously, you have been doing this for some time with so many builds under your belt. These questions are just based on neophyte speculation. Is there any induced 'bridging' of the steel 'axle' rods, used to hold parts in place, when the elastic bands are installed? Would sliding the wood spacers out to the edge of the ceramic plate help to negate any (if there is any) tendency of the rod to arch up ( and possibly) displace parts?
Again, this is just a couple questions from someone who has never fabricated a brass chassis...but would like to try someday.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:48 pm

Hi McLiams;

I have built these cars using the wooden strips along the outside and also without, and haven't noticed any difference. 3/32 piano wire is quite stiff, and doesn't bend over these short distances. I often use it for the axles on these small cars also, I haven't got the heart to cut down a Slot.it axle. The piano wire axles work well, as long as you cut it right through and resist the temptation to bend and break it. That would distort the end and could give you a wobbly wheel.

If you've never built a brass chassis, get yourself a honeycomb board and the nails, and you will find it becomes very easy. I built a lot of chassis back in the 60s without any kind of jig at all, and they were always slightly wonky. This method is very easy as it holds everything in place until all the solder has hardened. I try to avoid soldering piano wire as it often doesn't hold as well, but brass solders up really nicely. Some people would want to get rid of the extra solder visible on my chassis, but I don't mind the extra weight, and it is all on the inside.

Give it a go, you'll find it easy. If you have any other question, fire away.

Cheers,

Keith
Last edited by Retro Racer 44 on Tue Apr 21, 2015 12:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby McLiams » Wed Mar 25, 2015 1:00 pm

Retro Racer 44,

Thanks. It's on the 'bucket list'.

Beautiful work there.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Broman62 » Fri Mar 27, 2015 7:45 pm

This is an awesome thread RR 44...not only the great builds that are bein' shown but all the great tips for the "honeycomb"!!

Here's my 2Cents for the HC...I purchased 2 packs of these for my HC! They also have ceramic ones available!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301494019075?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

As you can see in the pics they are tapered and fit either straight in or at angles if the piece you are lining up does not match the holes!! The axles on the outsides with tires are .085 for 1/43 cars and the axle in the middle is a standard .093-3/32 axle!! They work pretty good!!

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Keep the tips and pics comin'!!
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Retro Racer 44 » Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:09 am

One more chassis built on the honeycomb.

I posted this pic on my thread about my Fiat Topolino Dragster, but thought i should post it here as well. Progress pics are posted on that thread.

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The extra axle across the car, and the tall piece of piano wire are holding the first roll hoop in place until it is soldered. The chassis was then laid over on its side as the extra side bars were added. The honeycomb held everything in place while it got soldered.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby HomeRacingWorld » Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:15 am

Have to add a +1 for the pins Broman showed.

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I picked them up after Turbokev's build and advice. VERY handy and worth the small price.
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby Z-carfan » Tue Apr 21, 2015 9:07 am

I was just reading through this thread, Now I know where these honeycomb plates are from I'll be ordering one soon.
It's an excuse to use my soldering iron. :text-yeahthat:
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby pfuetze » Wed Feb 03, 2016 2:25 am

masmojo wrote:
bibbster wrote:Mas, check these builds out!

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=7887


Yeah, On reflection I guess part of the reason I have never used a plastic motor pod on a brass chassis is cause all the brass chassis I have made were 1/43 and it's simply not an option. Until Kyosho of course, but I think the motor pod on the Kyosho is the weak link in their system anyway so I wouldn't have used it even if it were an option! :roll:


Mas, i know where to get a 1/43 motor pod ;)
for a FF030 motor (carrera go, scx compact) or even for a FF030 with short motor axle like the RadioShack motors
or for a H0 box motor
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Re: Chassis building on a honeycomb ceramic plate.

Postby walker » Wed Feb 03, 2016 3:57 am

What standard ratio between tyre dia. and clearance are they designed for ?

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