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In the old days some of the trailers sat on dollys and the car pulled it, so no weight was on the car, you got to run with the trailer, its a hoot

as for top heavy that silly garbage truck I built is top heavy and it will run the track, its no speed daemon but heck its trash

great builds Greg

Thanks for the replies. This gives me motivation.

Hey Jon, I bet that garbage truck really hauls the mail, I mean the trash! :)

I have an idea. Maybe a small clasp for a bracelet will work well to hook the trailer to the car. I have a tiny one here that I should be able to hide under the tow bar. This is comin together! Thanks Guys, you guys rock!

Oh no! Now you've opened Pandora's Box. Greg does fantastic static models.

Wow that snapon ball link looks great. That would work perfect. I might see if I can find one of those, price dependant.

Not sure what you mean Rob, I dont build static models. All my cars run have motors etc. When I photograph them I take the guide off so the fronted sits flat on the ground.

Greg - those are simply awesome!!! I love the color combo!

Better late than never. Decided to finish these off before I start something new, as its been to long. I've been building cars or working on the track every night for 2 weeks. It's great to get back into it after quite a while not working on slots.

Anyways last weekend I decided to start Bare Metal Foiling the Shasta. Well the paint started peeling off when I was removing the excess of the BMF. So I stopped there and decided to give the Shasta a quick coat of Tamiya clear to try and strengthen the paint. Then this happened -



I'm seriously gutted as the paint work on this was immaculate! I've started wet sanding it off and it's not looking to bad. I plan to try a different clear and see what happens.

Looks like the issue is the Model Master color coat didn't like the Tamiya clear over the top. I'm hoping my cheap acrylic clear from the hardware store will be ok. So to cheer me up I worked on a few other cars.

I have to say, now that its way too late, that damaged paint looks just like an aged fiberglass panel.

I've sprayed Tamiya clear over Model Master paint before and never had a problem. I usually spray light dust coats until I get enough clear. But this time I was in a rush so I sprayed it kinda thick. So maybe that's the difference.

I've sanded it all back and I won't have to respray the aqua. It's almost impossible to fix the damage completely due to the bumpy surface, short of stripping. It's not to bad, so I'm going to run with it.

I guess it was just that the enamel (notorious for taking insane amounts of time to harden for some shades), and like Dave said, lacquer is "hot" in a chemical sense, and will bite your butt with no warning.

I think you will be very happy with the bumpy surface. I remember lots of fiberglass boats and trailers when I was a boy that had uneven surfaces. And, I remember that the white panels chaulked and oxidized, while the colored panels became bumpy and still shined.

Well I just sprayed the acrylic clear over it and it crazed again over the model master Aqua. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I'm out of ideas! I've got the dodge in the same color combo to clear, as well as my 41 Plymouth in model master yellow. Damn!

I've had a think about my enamel paint issues. I've decided to sand back the aqua enamel areas and reshoot the same Aqua paint. Once fully dry I'm going to tape up the aqua and clear the Tamiya White only, then bare metal foil everything and call it done.

The aqua lacquer is fairly glossy and I should be able to get away with no clear. I'm done with trying clear over lacquer paint.

Use a laq over the laq only. I can't use Tamiya without some issues.

odd that it works that way. ever try Krylon clear?
speedy