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Any recommendations on a soldering iron/gun? I'm looking to start trying to build some sprint car chassis. So it would need to be able to solder the brass wire together.

Edited to correct typo and my mistake of putting copper instead of brass.

Best all around iron out there is a Hakko 601. A little pricey but great for all work and will last forever. You can buy ebay chinese knockoffs for under $10 and they will work for a year or so.

Don't buy a soldering gun, they are crap, get an iron. I have a Hakko but Weller and Unger work fine. Make sure it is at least 45 watts, 65 is better and all you'll ever need.

I have a digital Trakpower iron and love it, set it for 750 degrees turn it on and it’s ready to go in under 2 min :music-rockout:

Congratulations! You have asked one of the questions that elicit tonnage in opinions that are all heartfelt and sincere. I'm a Hakko man myself. I had Wellers and before that a WEN (ask your grandfather- WEN is the grandfather of Weller). I still have all of them, in various conditions of repair, so that I don't do something rough with a very fine tool. My Hakko FX-888D is the best I have ever seen, bar none. I have 8 different tips for different jobs, and it only takes seconds to swap them out. I can go from tiny circuit repair on PCB to slot cars to sweating pipes in no time at all.

I use the same one harry mentioned. Works great.

It won't work for me because I need to dial in specific temps for different kinds of jobs and solders and fluxes. There's nothing wrong with it for slot car stuff, that's certain.

The value of good acid flux is as important as your choice of iron. Lucky Bob's is the best and a good coating on your work will make the solder flow smoothly to all surfaces. I find cleaning with a wire brush, sandpaper, nothing makes joints as nice as using acid.

Not all fluxes are equal. I have tried a few from the stuff the local radiator shop uses to a plumbers flux called Ruby Red. None are as good as LB's. The problem is the cost, but I have found that "Sta Clean" flux is probably what LB pours into those little fingernail polish bottles. You can find Sta Clean on the internet in 6-8 ox bottles for under $10 and you will have a lifetime supply.

mb

I've used the Harris "Sta Clean" flux since the early 70's for chassis building. It's also available with a small coil of 4% silver solder too, if that is needed. Oatey's liquid flux, available at some hardware stores & home center Is supposed to be quite good too. It's stronger than Ruby red. i bought a bottle to try, but haven't yet. When using any acid flux, be sure to clean your work with alcohol or a mixture of water & baking soda to neutralize the acid. If you don't, any iron of steel parts (such as piano wire) will rust.

I've used several fluxes over the years, all of the above work fine. The best thing I did was to push a large gauge hypodermic needle through the opening of a drip bottle I got with one of my Wellers. I Dremeled the sharp tip off and ground it smooth and round, and it is the best way to apply flux I have ever had. Doing custom wiring on fancy electric guitars can be a huge PIA, but with my little flux bottle I save a lot of frustration.

Your custom flux bottle was a good idea & makes it easy to place the flux exactly where you want it. Nice job. I stuck a 1" piece of teflon tubing in the squirt tip of a small flux bottle that works similar. i also like to place a bit of flux in a glass dish (custard cup) & apply it with a natural hair paint brush. To keep solder & flux from flowing where I don't want it, I apply ATF or correction fluid there.

Thanks for your suggestions and the tips about flux. Can't wait to get some materials and get to practicing and seeing what I can come up with.