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Outstanding. Great little chassis.

Looks great! Always one of my favorite Porsches.

Allan

Love that little MRRC Porsche, looking forward to seeing how it runs.
Interesting design feature using wire for the pillow blocks rather than a bracket. I would be a bit concerned about bending the rear end in a crash?

I have done similar things but using a tube as the pillow block since it gives better stiffness. And you can trim away the main body of the tube for clearance as needed.

Nice small car chassis. Curious on performance with the torsion bar set up.

Dan

Nice chassis Dave. I have a few cars with torsion flex chassis in them and it works well. I expect you will be happy with the handling. It would make a good Indy roadster chassis.

Keith

Dave - that is a pretty slick chassis design! Looking forward to hearing how it runs! :)

Nice one Dave!

Wow. Magnet body mount.
Totally did not see that coming. The slide mount is also not something I had considered...but it's an interesting idea.

Nice build! How do you feel the Minnow compares to the stock motor?

Lot going on in this little project. Pretty impressive. Time to race it soon.

Great Job Dave!! :clap: ..........It is good to see a few more folks experimenting with the "flexi board" design, it is worth the effort.

If you don't mind, I have a couple of suggestions/comments......although you probably realized these things during your build ;)

You can always make the complete pivot assembly a little shorter (front to back), and start it a little closer to the motor.........it will still be plenty strong, and will give you some room to drill a body mount hole behind the front axle.

It is hard to tell from the pics., but it looks like the torsion bars have very little "unsoldered" length, which would make them very stiff indeed. (most of the flexi board chassis I see are a bit too stiff)............you can lengthen the unsoldered length, or, use a lighter gage wire. (I generally start with a fairly flexible chassis, test it, and if it chatters, it is too soft.)

By using 2 rear body posts you are running the risk of negating the "twist" of the chassis, particularly if the screws are snug....so...make sure they allow for some movement, and better yet, on your next one, go to a single rear post.

No need at all to worry about the rear end strength.....your method is just fine, tons of cars built this way,.....the piano wire is much stronger than most of the brackets available.

Again, Great job, and once you have played around with it, I am sure you will really appreciate the merits of the "flexi".

Cheers
Chris Walker

Very cool design Dave, I like the magnet mount idea. Cool seeing these different approaches from builders. I must give this torsion type chassis a try soon.
Chris, I appreciate your feedback on the build as to the wire size and the soldered areas of the torsion wire. This is something that`s great about this stuff, is having you seasoned/experianced builders looking over our shoulders.

Hi Dave (and all), I have attached a couple of pics., showing "shorter" pivot/hinge assemblies, this will allow you to drill a body post hole. Depending on where you need to position the front body post, you can alter the fore/aft position of the hinge. The hinge does not need to be long in order to be strong.......I use 2mm drill blank ( an old cut down motor shaft will be just as good) for my center pins.

Dave, We are keen to hear about your ongoing testing/tuning results........keep us posted!

Cheers
Chris Walker

If you give these a quick eyeball, you will notice that the complete hinge assembly is no bigger/longer than a front wheel/tire.......so......18/20mm.

In the first pic., the body post was behind the rear axle, so the hinge was positioned accordingly.



The body for this car required the body post to be a little further back, so, the pivot was moved forward.

Lookin' good Dave! :)