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Alright sit back and take notes. I'm going to do a little show and tell so you to can turn any stock guide into a deep guide. Now I want you to know I didn't come up with this. The guys I race with showed me this trick and I use it on all my rtr cars. Mainly my fly classis rebuilds :). Tonight I'm showing you how to do it using a slot it.

Stock guide


Lightly scuff with sandpaper


Take a stik of styrene and a side cutters


Cut to length and glue on I use the maxi cure stuff from scc

I then use the round sanding tool on my Dremel to sand it down


Then sands both sides as the stryrene is wider. I'm sure you can buy smaller but this is what I have so I have to sand both sides. I find it better this way. When you glue it on its easier to just glue it on and let it hang over :)


Then I round the front and back of the guide and sand the bottom side to the desired depth



Please not I normally glue it on the night before I sand it down. This way the glue sets up. But I've also done this last minute and raced on it 30 minutes later. Haven't lost one yet knock on wood!

Now I'm not saying this is better then a store bought deep guide. I do this to save money and know first hand it works! I race hard ask anyone I race with. I push my car hard prolly harder then I should. enjoy!

:auto-driving:

Well worth the price of a pack of stryrene :)

Oh yes. I bet a lot of guys have done this in the past. We did :) Back in the old days when everything was in black and white...you know, 1999 :)

Cool of you to share it.

I think it's a nifty way of getting a deep guide. Thanks so much for sharing! :music-rockout:

Just thinking aloud... it would seem possible using this method to take a standard guide and turn into a leading edge guide. Another words, extend the front part of the guide so it is further forward of the post.

I'm sure you can might get a little weak not having any support out there but worth a try!

I even took a stock pioneer I think it was. The one that doesn't have a flat bottom on it. Sanded it flat and did this. Runs like a rock star!

I have done similar things. I had one break after months of abuse. The glue dried. Was fixed in less than a minute. Good tutorial!

Wow three years ago i made this thread. Just put the link on facebook for a guy to read. Figured since i have three plus years using this method i better give it a bump for new folks to see. Enjoy. Ps still have lost one :).

Are there any other type of glue that will work , without having to order some ?

I have seen this done by a few guy's in the past and it works in a pinch. You say you do it to save money I guess I am missing that part. You can get 2 guides for $5.00 so that is $2.50 each. They have screws to take up the slop and also bigger diameter for a better fit than original. I know a lot of guy's are frugal so to each his own, good info though don't get me wrong.
Mike

I know there are slight differences in guide depth across brands and this helps determine how a car is apt to respond when over driven a bit. Will it hang the rear end out so much it snaps back, or will start to roll and pull the guide out of the slot? I prefer cars that slide versus roll over and assume that next to height of center of gravity, the guide depth is most responsible.

For those that have deepened the guide depth on a car they already have put a lot of laps on, what's the primary change in handling?

Slothead

I started to use gift card material for this. It is thin and very durable. My Trans Am cars have this mode.

On my home track the deeper longer guide prevent deslotting on acceleration out of a corner. I noticed my Proxy entries were deslotting so I needed to do something different. I use inexpensive 3D Printed guides with this mod. These guides have been tapped to accept a screw, and provide a pretty solid guide up front with no slop. I am hoping to see a difference in my proxy entries with this change.

Be careful on a newer style Scalextric. if you do this on one of them you may not be able to get the disc off to change the braid.
Mike

I'm certainly not doubting anyone's knowledge, I just never thought slop in the guide would be a contributor to a tendency for a car to roll over. I thought this would be due to overall guide depth or thickness. I use the big Parma guides on my oval dirt modified cars with photo paper or other very light bodies and they never lift out the slot, which I attributed to guide depth and low center of gravity. However most use Slick 7 guide tongues or cut down Parma Womp-Womp chassis that are sized for the guides which have threads and a nut to tighten securely, so there is no slop.

I've always attributed the tendency for my RMS resin builds to rollover or deslot while corning to the resin bodies creating a higher center of gravity. BUT, it's also true they are all mounted on Scalextric Trans Am chassis I bought without guides and stuck Monogram guides in that actually don't fit very well. On some I made shims to get the guide seated in the slot as best I could, but I never thought about slop as a reason for poor handling.

Thanks for enlightening me.

Slothead