B Nova in Pioneer

[HomeRacingWorld]

[MoparGreg]

Looks good Harry. Just wondering why the need to add a bnova in a pioneer? Ive never really had issues with the standard pioneer guide setup. Or did you just do this mod because you can? :)

[HomeRacingWorld]

Just because :) I had it sitting there and was working on a new car, and thought it would be a good thing to try. Some folks like to replace the guides for wood track use or just personal preference, figured now they would know which one to order.

just in one of those tinkerin' moods :)

[nhdungeonracer]

Oh...that'll be good to know! :dance:

Thanks for the tip! :clap:

[Burglar]

Bob actually makes a kit to fit the Pioneer. It is just the standard GM-1 1/16" plate with a spacer that goes into that annoying little gap. You do need to file away the chassis (half-round file) though to provide clearance for a Slot.It guide. With the Slot.It CH07 and CH10 I know you also have to (flat) file the front corners of the guide and round the back of the guide a little with the file. The Sloting Plus guides also fit but are a bit smaller and do not require as much filing. I've done this a few times and with the spacer it is easy besides the filing.

I have looked at the GM-2 though and thought it could be fitted to the Pioneer chassis this way.

I routinely mod my Pioneers this way as I dislike the standard guide system (too much slop) and especially dislike the little brass clips. I much prefer a standard eyelet and braid system as used with Slot.It and Sloting Plus guides.

I'll post a couple of pics of the Pioneer mods I do shortly.

I also use Sloting Plus Victor bushes up front now instead of standard Pioneer bushes. I then glue in everything with CA and brace the front axle mounts with styrene. This makes the Pioneers bullet-proof up front in case you happen to hit something you didn't want to hit. Pioneers depend on being tightened up rigid to protect the front axle mount. If you modify them to allow more float and then run the body a little loose then you run the risk of wobbly/broken front axle mounts.

EDIT: Here are some pics of my Lady Luck Charger (after mods) that I posted elsewhere when I did them a while back. Sorry for the poor photo quality, these were taken with my phone before I recently replaced my camera.


The SICH10 in place after considerable filing to round the shape:


This one shows the guide in place from the top:


I just have to cut the ends off the wires, strip them back, and install eyelets into the guide now:


This one shows the washer from the SICH10 in place, plus it also shows how I filed the inside of the Pioneer guide housing to improve clearance:


This is a bad shot but it shows the washer firmly seated on top of the GM-1. Note the distortion in the GM-1 around the screw. I'm not sure why this happened:


Another angle, again an attempt to show how I filed the housing:


Note the rounder profile of the SICH10 after considerable filing with a flat file to gain a rounder shape. I also filed the underneath of the tail end of the guide flag to ensure chassis clearance. Note the small washer that I made from tubing, and the fact that I had to use a piece of cheese to get the guide to sit up straight for the photo. Don't worry, I cleaned any cheese off before track testing!


Here's the Slot.It guide fitted.



I've also squeezed some CB Design wheels under there, 15x8s on the front and 15x11s on the back.

I finished fitting new wires to the Charger, so the chassis is all done:



This photo also shows the bracing. The white styrene at the front is square rod cut to length with a piece of .030" card on top with a notch for the wires to pass through to the guide.

[dreinecke]

Things that make you go "hmmm..."

I mat have to try this when I can. The stock ones haven't given me any issues, but are a bit fiddly.

[Burglar]

Actually one variable that is changed with your method Harry is that the guide is moved slightly closer the to front axle. This would change the handling characteristics, probably for the better.

I'm not sure which method is easier in terms of effort - I tend to think that the method I used probably requires less skill as you just have to keep filing until everything clears, rather than lining up the new guide mount accurately

Also, note in Harry's pic how flimsy the front mounts look. They do lock in with the body if you tighten it all up but if you run some float you lose that . Here are better photos of some of the mods made to the body and chassis for my purposes.





Here are the mods made to the interior tray. The mods at the back were made to fit 1009Y tyres, but I ended up using 1007Ys which I have fitted to a Mustang without cutting the interior this way. I always make the mods to the floor tough. These enable the body to float on the chassis. Otherwise the floor 'locks in' to the chassis.