Monogram Hurtubise Plymouth build

[HomeRacingWorld]

The varied tastes we are sharing with these tuning tips are great reading.

Do not have that alignment tool yet. I do mine by hand I guess? I just install the axle and flex the rear of the chassis until the axle spins freely and just about falls out if I tip it, then glue it in place.

[Burglar]

I find the cutter that comes in the kit very useful. The tool itself is useful as once you get that spinning well you know for sure it is aligned right, as the clearances are very tight, much tighter than with an axle (this might be more so with the Slot.It bushings - I know that I can't get that tool through the standard Pioneer rear axle bushings, although you could wriggle it all around in the front ones).

[Burglar]

[dreinecke]

Hmmm...I hadn't seen these bushings before! I've been hesitant to lower the bushings myself for fear I wouldn't get them perfect. These look the business!

[Burglar]

I spent a few weeks overseas but I blew the dust off this one today and will get back to it after a trip to Sydney, where hopefully I will pick up some more axles and little parts that I need to finish this one. I also need to do some chassis straightening - I'm guessing that hot water is the way, with the help of some extra magnets

[HomeRacingWorld]

Well, you are a seasoned vet but to say be careful is of course good advice.

I have learned that these chassis sometimes just will not completely straighten. At least I have not been %100 successful. That doesn't mean they don't look and run good, I just adjust the body with shims to get it right.

The key is that the running gear is true on the track. It is the front and rear body supports that are hard to get perfect. I test mine on the setup block, doing the usual pressing down on opposite wheels making sure there is no tipping.

[Burglar]

I haven't been around much lately. I haven't done much with the slot cars since I've been out of work - actually I've spent most of my spare time practicing guitar - but I did finish this build.

I used 1836 Slot.It spur, a 12T NSR pinion, Pioneer QS, Victor rear axle bushings, Sloting Plus screw-ft guide (I cut down the mounting to allow the standard Sloting Plus guide screw to seat properly), Slot.It axles, and SCC wheels with 1404Y tyres.

Some photos of my two Hurtubise Plymouths (modified and stock):





















That's all folks!

[HomeRacingWorld]

Yep, a great car gets better.

I started using the NSR pinion here as well. It has a better mesh at that size than any other I have tried.

[Burglar]

It's a much better car for the old 'Riverside racing' now.

I love the big NSR pinion. I had to play around with the motor mounting a lot to get a strong mount that fits, but overall it's much stronger than the mount I had in the Wendell Scott car, which in the end was largely dependent on the melt point of hot glue! I've retired that one and used the rear wheels in this, hence the black paint. The lead was lifted straight out of that car and stuck in this chassis, because I had tested it a few times and found that set up worked.

The mods to the interior and shell are nowhere near as radical as in the Scott car. I just found that they didn't add much in terms of racing performance. The only real body mods are a bit of plastic ground from the sills to retain the exhaust pipes, and a little bit off of the rear floor of the interior. No cutting of the interior 'glass' etc

Oh there was some grinding of the underside of the parcel shelf though, mainly to clear the motor and wiring. The motor is a bit further forward than stock, but not by much.