Fly Tuning the HRW Way!

[goosenapper]

[HomeRacingWorld]

LOL, well thanks sir and you are welcome. It was my pleasure really, I had a blast.

But....make sure you report when you get it. It might be a heap :)

[TsgtRet]

Great article on the update to Goose's Porsche. The wheels look perfect! Unfortunately, some of us will never be able to afford a Tire Razor (or similar) but we can still apply the "old" means to the same end and get similar results. I think it's more a matter of someone showing what you want to achieve and, as usual Harry, you excell at it. :clap:

[goosenapper]

I had time to run the 917 and wow- it's Slot.it smooth, perhaps even better. As I've been planning on building one, I asked for a car that was set up to run perfectly on a wood track. The magnet remains intact so that it can also run on my existing Scalextric Sport set-up. I tried removing the magnet, but there was a bit of chattering. Harry's suggestion was that the front axle could use a bit more play to compensate for the uneven Sport surface. I considered this, but I asked for a car that runs like butter on wood, so why mess with it? I'll leave it as is. I put the magnet back in and it still runs super-smooth on the Sport track. It even sounds smooth.

Something that I never considered before was that the interior on some cars may be not fit in the space that's provided for it. It can bind with the chassis, or in extreme cases, the edges of the interior can even rub damage the wires if they are run under it. Harry's fix is to simply sand the whole interior down in order to eliminate this possibility:

I'm sure that I'll be giving a few of my other Fly's (and my SRC) this very treatment in the future.

So the tuning that Harry performed and outlined in the article works wonders on Fly's, and I'm sure that most of it can be used on other brands' problematic cars as well. Thanks again, Harry! :D

[HomeRacingWorld]

You are welcome sir.

It is true that a lot of the methods used to tune these cars work on others.

Good luck on your SRC. I got one because of you and Lee....so the fun will begin this week.

[HomeRacingWorld]

That is a front motor beast isn't it?

Make sure the drive shaft is secure and the motor is not rocking in the mount under power. That is a start.

They are a handful to say the least sir.

[HomeRacingWorld]

I am no expert on those really, there are some might fine tuners here that are though.

What is the car doing, or rather not doing that is giving you fits? Maybe some of these guys can chime in and help too.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Hmmmm. Well, I sent you a PM sir.

Could be a handful of things...braid...loose wires (especially at the guide).

But please check your PM and give me a holler when you can.

[SuperSlab]

[goosenapper]

[HomeRacingWorld]

You can use Future instead of spray. Safer on those fragile stampings. Leave the glass and all, and just brush it over the body.

Looks like a great list!

[goosenapper]

[SuperSlab]

OK, I did say I would...

Firstly: the outside: nothing much to see actually. Just your regular cooking model Daytona



The inside: OK, here it is pretty clear that some stuff has been happening!



To summarise what I did:

1. NSR Shark 25k motor. I used this (overkill!) motor as we run at 10V. On 12V I would think a 20 or 22k Shark motor or similar would be more than enough.
2. Stiffened the chassis from the motor to behind the rear axle. With front motor cars I think this is non-negotiable: any strongish motor cause way too much flex in the chassis, causing all kinds of undesirable behaviour. I typically use brass square tubing with JB Weld to glue in place.
3. Replaced the drive shaft spring with some soft tubing. I bought some soft tubing from a local engineering supply shop: reduces vibrations and reduces power trian losses.
4. Because of the soft material used to connect the drive shaft: added a second "center bearing" just behind the tubing. I find this really smooths things out a lot. NB: better make sure the alignment is perfect otherwise you lose more than you gain!
5. Sloting Plus Victors bushings. I really like these as they are totally forgiving of bushing holder misalignment.
6. Slot.it crown.
7. BWA wheels with hubs turned down. BWA Ferrari inserts, wheel and inserts painted to match the original.
8. Urethane tyres
9. 3/32" Brass tubing "inserts" in the fron axle holders.
10. Two cut to length pieces of Slot.it 3/32" axles as stub axles with piece of styrene tubing glued on as "stopper".
11. Slot.it universal guide with soft NSR braid.

Interior of the body with the chassis:



As can be seen I had to do some interior surgery to get clearance for reinforcements etc to ensure free body float. The advantage is that, if done carefully, it is not visible from the outside. You still retain a good looking interior.

This car is an absolute joy to run. In a race I am prepared to stack this against just about anything other than a good driver with something like an NSR.Because from the outside it just looks like your common or garden front engine Fly it is a great Q-car!

[goosenapper]

[SuperSlab]