Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby WB2 » Tue Aug 29, 2017 4:19 pm

I'm curious on the braid replacement.
For those that have done it, how many do it like Carrera with two tails and how many do it with one long tail?
I wonder if one works better than the other.
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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby chappyman66 » Tue Aug 29, 2017 4:38 pm

Normally it's a resistor not a capacitor. It's there to limit noise on radio and TV frequencies, theoretically. I take them off.

Brakes are primarily a function of motor and gearing. Most Carrera cars have very little braking, primarily due to the motor. The magnet /armature combination matters. The weight of the car also matters, and they are heavy.

Our club runs them stock with only a tire change allowed. We do run a higher voltage than other classes (12.5 to 13 vs standard 12 or 10V for vintage F1) and noticed that makes a huge difference. I haven't run a piranha at 10V so I don't know if that would affect braking (less voltage pushing back on the motor?).

My guess is car weight and gearing at this point.
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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby Cgyracer » Wed Aug 30, 2017 6:52 am

You can also have bad braking with poor braid contact but most likely that is not the case with your guide being rebuild with new braid.

Rob
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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby RichD » Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:46 am

There are no resistors in the RF filter, the things that look like resistors are chokes (inductors), the other components are capacitors. The chokes are wired in series between the guide and the motor, with older cars they were soldered directly to the motor, now they are on the small circuit board that also contains the reversing switch. Years ago a choke might burn out, so the car would no longer run. I have not heard of that happening lately. The capacitors would not have any impact on the car's performance, the chokes do have a little resistance, so they would have a minor impact on power and braking, providing that they are not burned out.
In the past a filter network was required in cars that might be sold in Europe, now that is also required in the US.
If your cars now have less braking it is not because the RF filter components have been removed.
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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby Giddyup » Wed Sep 06, 2017 7:55 pm

Ok thanks gents. I didn't think those little do-dads (resistors) would be the culprit.

Re weight, she weighs in around 103gr. It has stock gearing, which is ultra smooth. The braid contact patch is good, with the guide buried in the slot.

I think I'm going to resolder the wires to the Pirahna motor (which if folks have been reading along) is what I replaced the stock E200 motor with....
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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby chappyman66 » Thu Sep 07, 2017 8:12 am

In the old days, you could shim the magnets closer to the armature. This increased the field strength which could increase RPM and braking (brush tension also matters as does the arm winding). These modern 1/32 motors don't respond very well to that treatment.

Carrera cars have never had good brakes.....it's a different driving style for sure. You might just try a different Piranha or orange end bell slot.it motor to see if it makes a difference.
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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby RichD » Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:30 am

Older Carrera cars had poor brakes, partly because of the way the cars were geared and partly because of the motor. The latest Carrera cars have good brakes, so you should first consider looking at your controller to be sure that it is working OK. If you put an ohm meter across black and red leads you should read nearly zero ohms. Sometimes a controller hill hang up so the wiper never touches the brake band or contact. I have a controller with adjustable brakes, when I run Carrera cars I turn the brakes down. I put a Piranha motor in one of my Carrera cars and the brakes are fine.
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Re: Replacing the braid for Carrera guide

Postby Cincyslots » Mon Nov 13, 2017 5:58 pm

There are a lot of ways to skin a cat. 103 seems tough to get traction but we run at 13v at the track. I see us possibly going to 12v. In the DTM Series we are running, most cars are set up like this:
Front wheels with tire OD-20mm
Rear wheels with tire 21mm-21.60mm
Weight of the car 125-131gms
No Magnets of course.
Stock motor
Urethane Tires
Run on Carrera D132

One more thing, the tin plated braid is thinner and smoother.

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