Info from you experts on some vintage rides.....

[ourwayband]

Picked these up from a Hobby Shop's back room.Three are 1/24 and one is 1/32.I'm pretty sure a couple of the lexan bodied cars are scratch built chassis.What are the two hard body cars?
thanks for the info
Rusty

[mattb]

green vac car is a a Pactra Porsche

light blue chaparral is a Marx sold by sears and in the sears professional race set (best set of the 60's)

blue open wheel car looks to be a strom chassis with some kind of vac body on it

bottom left is a scratchbuilt car

[mattb]

the blue car may be a strom maserati, not my strong area

[ourwayband]

Thanks Matt!!The blue car is a hard body.Thanks again for the info.
Rusty

[BIG E]

The blue open wheel car may be a Maserati, or a Lancia F1 car. The light color car with blue stripe is probably an early McLaren or Lola T70 body. The chassis looks state of the art for it's era, and I believe the telltale gold can may indicate a Russkit motor.
Be careful with those two vacuumed formed bodies, they're old, and NOT Lexan. The bodies back then were formed using Butyrate, a clear plastic material that usually yellows with age and also gets brittle. It was commonly used in commercial packaging and the hobby picked up on using the material and equipment already in place at the time. You've noticed the rippling on the edges of the bodies, I'm sure. This is also very common. Be gentle, they will not survive many bangs on a high speed commercial track, or even a home circuit for that matter. There are modern Lexan reproduction bodies of various styles available, you may want to paint and mount up a couple of those if you plan to run the cars a bit, saving the originals for posterity.
Of course, lightly oil and apply low voltage to the cars at first before letting them rip at full throttle. The guide flag, braid, tires, gears, axles, ect. obviously need to be inspected and adjusted or replaced as well. I know it's common knowledge but still good advice just the same, better to have the car run smoothly first time out instead of launching off onto the floor or burning out a nice original motor.
Hope this helps you to have lots of FUN from those four vintage rides. Enjoy! -- Ernie :>)

[ourwayband]

Thanks for the advice Ernie.I run very little 1/24 so I'll keep the Marx and maybe trade the other 1/24 two off for some ol' Eldon stuff.Let someone have them that knows what they are doing :D

[mattb]

The Pactra is the most valuable of that bunch. The Marx is not worth much, the Strombecker down at the bottom of the list. The scratchbuilt car can be all over the place. A lot depends on what kind of motor is in it. It looks like an oval hole Mabuchi 16D, which is a fairly collectable motor that was packaged and sold by Mabuchi under their name. Champion had a similar motor that is collectable also.

dollar amounts are hard to be accurate about as demand changes every day

[ourwayband]

Thanks Matt!
Rusty

[chrisguyw]

Hello Rusty, The folks seem to have pretty well identified your cars, except, the motor in the McLaren (white with blue stripe) is a 26D, not a 16D.
The chassis on the same car may well be one of the 3 rail "Champion" RTR chassis of the time, and, if it is indeed scratchbuilt, it is definitely a Champion design copy, and uses a Champion motor bracket.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[mattb]

Chris I couldn't see it well enough to know what kind of motor it was, the Champion 26 is still a sought after motor among vintage "go fast" crowd. The motor can go from $20-$35/$40 most all the time. Champion frames are also big to the same crowd. It is fast combo and needs a big track to stretch out. That said it would be a good item to run thru ebay.

[ourwayband]

This is what she looks like .Thanks for the info guys.
Touched the wires to the track,motor did turn over,but I'm sure she will need tuning............

[chrisguyw]

Hi Rusty, Seeing your latest picture, I can tell you that this is not a factory Champion chassis,....it is a scratchbuilt (not an overly skilled builder) powered by a 26D motor. The motor has a magnet shim, and appears to have heat sinks on the spring posts, so it may well be a modified 26D. The screw on top of the motor securing the endbell, is not factory, which further suggests that the motor has been opened, and likely worked on.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[ourwayband]

Thanks Chris!

[BIG E]

Aha! NOT a Russkit motor as first suspected, but I had a good laugh when I saw the stereo speaker hookup wire on the tabs. Man, so many guys did that, and you see the result... not flexible enough and broken off at the guide flag. A pair of wires from a PARMA 16D motor will work fine on that car, I've got plenty of new pairs taken off the motors when building competition cars. PM me if you'd like, I'll send you some "on the house". Enjoy! -- Ernie :>)

[ourwayband]

Thanks Ernie!!
Rusty