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I just found a AMT 66 Comet complete, what is the prefered method for stripping off old paint without hurting the body or plastic
thanks in advance Mike Jones

I like using Super Clean. It comes in a 1 gallon jug . It is a purple jug, and is available at Walmart in the Automotive section. I have soaked old kits in it for days when the paint was tough to remove without any problems. Most only need a few hours.

Super Clean works great, but do not use on Chrome, it will take it off, too. Also wear gloves. Sometimes it won't cut lacquer so good.

I have used break fluid on styrine plastic models before with no problems.

The old AMT/MPC cars were made of Cycolac plastic. I think they would be safe in brake fluid, but it is a different plastic then styrene. It is actually the same plastic used in our old telephones.

I recently picked up a couple of the Comet pace car decals and am going to send one to Bruce Paterson. Possibly he will have them available in a month or so. The rtr came with the decals applied in the nice display box. The kit came in a white promo box with the decals loose.

I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet, but the safest, most popular, and most effective stripper for plastic models is 91% isopropyl alcohol, in my experience. It won't harm your hands unless you stay in it for a really long time, and brake fluid, Superclean, and several others don't work a bit better. After the body has been in the alcohol for a long enough time for the paint to be softened, I speed up the process by scraping a lot of it off with my thumbnail in the vat. It works for enamel (takes longer), or lacquer (amazingly fast, tampos, too). The only time it ever failed me was a Scalextric body that had a freakishly thick clear coat. I sanded it lightly with #600 grit just to scratch it up, stuck it back in the alcohol and it was stripped in about an hour.

This is a timely post. Just got a loaner Ford Ranchero to create a mold from. I believe it's an AMT.





Brushed on paint's pretty thick. Think I'll try the 91% ispropyl dip to clean it up.

Dan

Good. That will keep that old body safe. Brake fluid can make an old body brittle. You should never see what it does to resin.

That's one of my dream cars. I definitely want one if the mold works, Dan. One of my buddies back then had one with a 260 (forerunner to the famous 289), and a 3 speed on the column. Ran like a striped *ss ape!

Ranchero cleaned of two layers of paint (green and blue/red underneath) after a 24 hour alcohol bath and a whole bunch of steel wool scrubbing and a bit of sanding stick.



Now some modeling to fill in the front and rear valences and cover the bed to prepare a slosh casting master. Re-pops will be available if decent.

Thanks for the alcohol bath confirmation.

Dan

I was not aware that there were two kinds of alcohol. I noticed today that there is the 91, which is not what I usually buy. I use the weaker mix for a pre-soak before painting. I will try the 91 mix for removing paint in the future and see how it works.

I'm using Super Clean now on a Carrera Torino NASCAR, seems to be working. I will report back tomorrow. There use to be this stuff called Chameleon which worked great. Sorta smells like Super Clean.

There is a rather expensive alternative that I own, but have never needed. It is the nuke of strippers, very strong. The name is Blue Magic, and I have it in a quart bottle. Its for what can't come off any other way. It still doesn't do the damage some things do.

Dan, let us know when bodies are available.

Hey guys thanks for the suggestions,I talk to some modeling friends of mine and they said try easy off oven cleaner.
I soak it down and let it set for 24 hours, took it outside and hosed it off, most all the paint came off with out even
scrubbing it very cool'
thanks again Mike Jones :banana-dance: