1/25th Beach Racer Project

[HomeRacingWorld]

[btaylor]

Harry, Those are some great cars right there. That series is VERY fun! I believe we had less crashes, and more fender to fender action with those, than any other series at my track. I passed mine on a while back, but intend to build more for my new oval. Looking forward to your paint schemes as well. I still have a Hudson body, and a Merc too I believe. Might need to get going on another group myself!. Thanks for sharing these, and cant wait to see your push truck!

Bob

[GRUNZ]

Very nie project.
One question: what are called those 3/32nd "axle" you are using to checking the wheel width and for locking the wheels when building the chassis? Are you going to cut them to size and use as axles?
thanks.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Thanks.

Those are 3/32nd ejector pins I acquired from RazorJon. BUT I also use K&S 3/32nd piano wire, works the same way. I just have a few long ones I use because I like the width for the setup block.

On the cars I am using standard Slot.it axles cut to fit.

[Z-carfan]

Your wheel 'blanks' Harry, what are those? Could one just use spare wheels for setup?

[GRUNZ]

thanks Harry for the answer. I have got some but I did not remember the specific name.
I cut them and use as axles for odd jobs - basically when it would require to cut the nsr/slot.it axles I normally use.
I tried to look for them on Ebay but no luck...

[Broman62]

WOW...busy, busy, busy...nice selection!!! :auto-layrubber: :auto-layrubber: :auto-layrubber:

[HomeRacingWorld]

Mike, well the short answer is YES you can use CB Design or Slot.it "15x8" wheels and your axle will be close enough on center of the motor shaft without the need for a hypoid gear.

I have used them many times and the gear mesh is smooth enough and with break-in, well even better.

The longer answer... :doh:

Standard FC-130 type (Piranha) and FK-180 (Jaws/NC-5) motors have identical motor shaft height when set flat. Or as close as it gets.

"Official" specs from China indicate a motor can height of 15.1 to 15.4 with a +- .03. Well...you can take that as gospel if you want to :)

In my measurements here, my average is 15.30 MM.
It DOES VARY from brand to brand in the slightest.
This is WITHOUT a wrapper/label/paint/anodized.
With some labels/paint, the average is around 15.50.

When my setup wheels were made they were turned to a 15.50 MM OD.
When you install them on an axle and line the axle with the motor shaft, it is about as close to dead on center as you can ask for.
The standard "15x8" wheel has an OD at the rib of 15.875

So the size difference is VERY slight and like I said, you can get away with it.
But you can make them more accurate by mounting them in your Razor/Truer and sanding them slightly to bring the OD to around 15.50. Does not take much!

[Gameover]

Cant wait to bang up next month :)

[HomeRacingWorld]

[Broman62]

Great video Harry...pretty much how I learned to do mine in all scales from your previous videos...with same materials and slightly different ones...it all works out just take your time guys!!

One question that I have and I guess it depends on whether the wheels are tucked under the body or are sticking out past body or doesn’t matter...Do you do all of your sanding of the wheels and tires to have them established sitting flat before you set body height?? Thanks in advance!!

[HomeRacingWorld]

Thanks.

Good question sir.

I sand and true the FRONTS before I build the chassis. I do this as I build my guide mount to set at the right height (or as close as I can get). So it's not about the body mount/rake/height.

The rears are not much an issue either. The diameter difference I reduce in sanding doesn't really effect the look of the car that much.

I do not think it's a big deal either way.